I have decided to put pen to paper at the
urging of my friend and colleague His Excellency Richard Baltimore III, the
Consul General of the United States of America in Jeddah Saudi Arabia. His
Excellency, who heard of my experience during one-of our discussions at the
many functions we attend together as representatives of our respective
countries in Jeddah, insisted that it was necessary to record this incident for
historical reasons and as "an inspiration to others".
Richard Baltimore III who served at the Embassy of the United States in Pretoria for two years during the apartheid
era, had during his time there been a great help and support to members of the
liberation movement and the oppressed people in South Africa.
The
Hajj
The pilgrimage or the Hajj, as the Muslims
know it, is a five day ritual which involves the movement of pilgrims from
Makkah to a valley called Mina about 7 kilometres away. From there, the entire
mass of people move to a place called Arafat, and thereafter to Muzdalifa and
back to Mina where they stay for a further three days and then return to
Makkah. At each of these sites, they have to conduct certain rituals, which
constitute the Hajj process. In the valley of Mina, which has to accommodate 3
million people, on an area of 2 square kilometres, the Government of Saudi
Arabia has divided the space into approximately 150 camps made up of almost
70000 tents to ccommodate all the pilgrims.
South
African Camp
The temperature on this fateful 15th day of
April 1997, at about 11 O'clock in the morning was 45 degrees Celsius. The
South African camp was designed to accommodate 9000 people but due to some
miscalculations, the camp was overcrowded and approximately 200 pilgrims could
not find accommodation in the tents. Many of these pilgrims sheltered from the
burning sun by sitting under some huge refrigerated trucks that were parked on
the road in front of the camp.
Fire!
While waiting for the arrival of the
official in charge of providing accommodation outside the camp, I took shelter
under a refrigerated truck. I was chatting with some pilgrims when we saw
people running past the camp. At first we did not take notice until we realised
that the number of people running past the camp was increasing at a very rapid
rate. Suddenly we saw vehicles loaded with people also rushing past the camp
and the crowd of people increased to a stampede within a few minutes. We
immediately moved further to ascertain the reason for this and were informed
that a fire had broken out in one of the camps, which was approximately a
kilometre from the South African camp. We heard sounds of explosions and saw
large clouds of smoke arising in the distance.
People were screaming and shouting and generally
in a state of panic.
Crowds
Immediately I entered the South African
camp and noticed that great anxiety and fear had gripped the people. The road
in front of the camp was completely choked with the people desperate to get away
from the fire and it was impossible to move. A decision was taken to close the
gate of the South African camp to prevent other people from entering and
causing a stampede.
Having done that we positioned ourselves
over the corrugated iron fence and sprayed the crowd outside with water to cool
them off as they rushed past. From this position, we initially felt that the
fire was at a distance and did not pose any danger to the South Africans.
However, we also took notice that the fire was spreading onto the hillside in
the background about a kilometre away and people were scattering in all
directions.
Risk
As the only person in authority in that
camp, in my capacity as Consul General, I asked some community leaders to make
a decision on behalf of the South African pilgrims. Climbing onto a mobile
refrigeration unit, I saw that the fire was burning furiously.
Helicopters were pouring huge buckets of water onto the fire and fire engines were desperately trying to get the fire under control.
Helicopters were pouring huge buckets of water onto the fire and fire engines were desperately trying to get the fire under control.
By this time, the crowd of people walking
past the South African camp became extremely dense and it was impossible to
open the gate. I therefore advised the people to break down the fence at the
rear of the South African camp in order to open a way to evacuate the people should
the need arise.
Danger
Other South African pilgrims joined me at
the place where I stood and we monitored the movement of the fire. Suddenly
there was a change in the direction of the wind and now clearly the fire was
heading towards the South African camp. A decision was then made that the South
African pilgrims needed to evacuate the camp. As it was impossible to open the
gate, the people were asked to move out of the camp from the rear where the
fence had been broken down. I urged the people to leave all their belongings
and to move out of the camp as fast as they could.
People had begun to panic and I appealed to
them to calm down. It was also impossible for me to guide them as to the
direction they should take, as it seemed that most of the roads leading away
were congested. They were advised to take any road or highway that led them
away from the approaching fire.
Family
evacuation
Suddenly I realised that my wife and four
children needed to get away. But my responsibility dictated that I stay in the
camp to ensure that all South Africans were evacuated and to assist any in
difficulty. I decided that I had to send away my family to safety and
approached a relative and asked him to take my wife and children with him. A
friend agreed to carry my 7-year-old son on his shoulders to avoid him being
crushed by the crowd.
I could see the anguish in the eyes of my wife and urged
her to move quickly and to take care of the children. As they walked out of the
camp, I glanced at them and wondered if that was the last time I would be
seeing them. I knew that by staying at the camp, I would be placing my life in
a great danger.
Sick
I began evacuating the people as fast as
possible. Walking from tent to tent I ensured that all the people were moving
out. In the far end of the camp people were sound asleep, unaware of the great
drama that was playing itself out around them. I woke these people and rushed
them out of the camp.
In one tent I found a man and a woman. The
man was sitting next to his wife and explained that she was extremely sick and
unable to walk. I told him that he had no choice but to take his wife and
leave. I helped him to pick up his wife and hovinq put her arm around his
shoulder, I supported them to the end of the camp and asked them to continue
walking, which they did with some difficulty.
"Heart
Tablets"
After about 20 minutes, I noticed that most
people had managed to get onto the side of the road leading away from the fire.
I stood on an elevated spot to check the camp and saw that at the end of the
camp an elderly man was shuffling around in search of something.
I ran the 100 or so metres towards him and
with the exploding gas cylinders, sirens, screams and other sounds in the
background I almost became hysterical myself, realising that the fire was fast
approaching the South African camp. I screamed at the man about his suicidal
behaviour. He responded that he needed his tablets before he left. I told him
to forget his tablets and get out of the camp but he insisted that it served no
purpose saving himself from the fire if he would collapse and die of heart
failure down the road. The man was looking for his "heart tablets"!
I realised that he needed help. He
indicated that his tent was in the last row near the ablution block. I took him
to each tent but he failed to recognise any as his. Eventually, I heard a
helicopter overhead and realised that the fire was getting really close and in desperation
asked him in which camp his tent was. He replied that his tent was in camp
number 5. Sadly,
I had to remind him that we were in fact searching camp 6 and
that camp 5 was beyond reach due to the closeness of the fire. I urged him to
walk away and although he was greatly distressed, he agreed. I walked with him
to the rear end of the camp and recall wondering, whether, with the added
stress of the fire, he would make it to safety.
Old
and Infirm
I was now sure that the South African camp
was empty but could not stand by and see the old and infirm pilgrims lying
nearby, too exhausted to move away. I joined the effort by the Indians and
Pakistanis to carry these people to safety. We all agreed that we would carry
them about a 100 meters down the road and at that point ask others to take them
further. I also remembered one very old man who insisted that he be left there
to die as he was too old and therefore it was unnecessary to save him. However,
he was also carried away.
Under
Control
I eventually moved about 300 meters away
from the camp and began to assist the elderly and injured and awaited
developments. It seemed that the fire was being brought under control and at
about 3pm that afternoon, it looked safe to go back to the camp.
I was extremely tired, thirsty and hungry
by this time and was extremely pleased to see a fellow South African whom I
knew quite well. He told me that his tent was still standing and that he had
plenty of food. We rushed to his tent and I must say that that was the tastiest
plate of biryani I had ever eaten.
Return
I began to worry about my family. It was
impossible to know where they could have ended up. The sirens were still
sounding everywhere. Helicopters were removing the seriously injured. Figures
released later showed t~at over 500 people had died and thousands were injured.
I found that the best option was to wait at the camp and hope and pray for
the-safety of my family.
Exhausted, I fell asleep. When I awoke,
amidst the general excitement of the returning crowds, I recognised the voice of
my little son in a nearby tent. I ran out to find my family had returned safe
and sound. They had been separated from the group due to the crowds and my wife
and three of my children had ended up at another part of Mina where they had
taken shelter. My eldest son had found himself on a freeway to Makkah but had
been assisted by some unknown person and brought back to the camp.
Another
day in the life of a South African diplomat!
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