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Tuesday 1 March 2016

Uniforms for diplomatic and consular representatives abroad

From Deon Fourie who was in Foreign Affairs from 1 January 1955 until 30 June 1957




FINE FEATHERS … 1956

To clarify how I came to design a diplomatic uniform, I should explain that I was continually coming upon files dealing with strange subjects and the one dealing with a possible uniform was one of the files. I can’t remember how I stumbled across these files, but I did. 

Having a boss in DFA who did everything himself – the Cadets fetched the files twice a week  … the 2nd Secretary translated Spanish Gypsy poetry into Afrikaans and the rest of the time we did what we liked … I wrote memos which were seldom acknowledged … when I designed a training scheme for Cadets it was not even filed … .Some I turned into newspaper articles later. This one was written in about 1956.

When I read this some 60 years later it seems strange that when there had been so much agitation for a uniform the Dept. was not prepared to accept the proposal.  Of course, I was only a Cadet in my second year and considering also one First Secretary’s caustic remarks to me I suppose that some thought I had a lot of cheek. On the other hand I did write in a reproving or patronising tone which would not have been welcome to some. Still,  I did say ‘respectfully’ once!

A propos of this memo …

A note from Derrick de Villiers to First Secretary Joe Fourie said “Filed by Mr Jones without comment”. Mr Jones was then Head of the Political Section.
De Villiers told me that he could not prevail for Ghana’s Independence Celebrations to which Counsellor Robert Jones and IFA de Villiers went as official representatives.

C’est la vie … ou la guerre … ?

Deon Fourie  

26th February 2016

UNIFORMS FOR DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR REPRESENTATIVES ABROAD

Historical Note.

In 1929 after enquiries had been made regarding the procedure followed by Ottawa, Dublin and Canberra, the High Commissioner in London (Mr. Louw) was informed that “for the time being” full evening dress would be adopted as the uniform of the Union’s Ministers in Washington, The Hague and Rome.

            In 1934 a minute to the Consul General in Lourenço Marques, who had drawn attention to the advantages of a suitable uniform in a tropical climate such as obtained at his station, prescribed as “ordinary occasional dress” for official functions.

            In 1937 a note was submitted to the Under-Secretary asking whether steps could be taken in the matter and pointing out that there was much to be said for the adoptions of a distinctive uniform as was worn by other Foreign Services. The Secretary asked to see designs of the Netherlands tropical uniform but no decision in the matter was recorded.

            At the end of 1939m the Union’s representatives overseas were sounded and the majority pronounced themselves in favour of a distinctive uniform for the Foreign Service. (Note by Mr Jordaan, 18.3.1947). The design of Dr Leyds’s uniform (now in the Transvaal Museum) was mooted, but it was felt that a very much simpler and less ornate design was called for.  Dr Bodenstein discussed the matter with the Prime Minister but General Smuts said that as he had newly entered into office and as a war was in progress he did not wish to make too many changes just yet. He asked that the question be held over until after the War.

Early in 1947 in a private note to the Secretary, general Theron expressed strong sentiments on the wearing of evening dress to day functions and urged the wearing of morning coat if a distinctive uniform were not to be adopted.  

In a subsequent note on the file, Mr Jordaan said that he considered that all our representative favoured a uniform. While morning coat would be preferable for day wear if a uniform could not be agreed to, that would hardly meet the requirements of our representatives in tropical posts _ “Ask Parminter, Fourie, du Plessis, Horn and others how they like walking about with a morning coat in the sweltering heat when their colleagues are rigged out in cool, white tropical uniforms!” He suggested a Russian style uniform, cut like a naval uniform with shoulder insignia differentiating the ranks. The objection to the expense, Mr Jordaan added, fell away with the clothing allowance available to officers travelling between classified posts. The uniform would not be worn often and a system of insignia simply added to the uniform with the officer’s progress in rank would keep the cost low.

Mr Bruce drew up a memo which highlighted most of the foregoing. Pointing out that Belgian, United Kingdom, French and Portuguese officials were permitted by their regulations to wear white tropical uniforms on ceremonial occasions, he stressed that it was unquestionably a hardship to impose heavy, dark dress on representatives at tropical posts.

            In support of Mr Bruce’s memo Mr G.P. Jooste submitted a note to the Secretary expressing his full agreement with General Theron’s opinion on the prevailing dress.  Morning coat was not the answer as it was past diplomatic practice to regard it simply as “formal” dress whereas evening dress was regarded as the only alternative to a distinctive uniform. On the subject of a distinctive dress, Mr Jooste added –

“I would however like to suggest, in passing, that if and when do decide upon a uniform, we should not model it on the conservative and ornate uniforms of some of the older diplomatic services. We should consider something more simple and hygienic – though dignified – something on the lines of a naval uniform and suitably adapted”. 

The Secretary intimated that the Department’s policy would not yet be changed.

A Compromise.

Accordingly the Union’s representatives were permitted, by circular D.A. 60-, in their discretion, to wear morning coats and white suits in tropical localities, and the Secretary, in a letter to Gen, Theron, said -

” … I would like to add that the introduction of a distinctive uniform has not been dropped but has merely deferred for investigation at a later date. We hope to revive the matter when pressure of more important things besetting us permits of proper consideration being given to this question.”

In response to the circular permitting the wearing of white suits, Mr Horn, who was
then Consul-General at Lourenço Marques, a white suit was every day attire for Europeans, Indians and Natives, and thus hardly constituted suitably formal dress for day time ceremonial functions. Morning dress being far too hot for Lourenço Marques, he urged early consideration of the possibility of introducing a suitable uniform, at least for tropical stations. Mr Horn was told however, that the matter of uniforms was still not to be considered by the Department.

When Dr Naudé took up his appointment in Lourenco Marques in 1951 he again drew the Department’s attention to the requirements both of climate and protocol in Moçambique and enquired whether consideration had not yet been given to the provision of a suitable uniform. He pointed out that on formal occasions tropical uniforms were worn by the United Kingdom and French representatives in Lourenco Marques.

            This led to an enquiry being directed to the Chief of General Staff regarding the uniform pattern worn by the South African Navy and the South African Corps of Marines. Although the CGS promised to submit designs in due course this was not done and the matter was dropped.

More Enquiries.

In 1952 Mr Taljaard seems to have addressed personal letters to colleagues in Madrid, Rome, The Hague, and Paris on the subject of uniforms. The consensus of opinion seems to have been that the old style of uniform with cutaway frock, cocked hat and sword, not only did not fit into the post War age but was so expensive as to make it almost prohibitive (£200 for a British ambassador’s uniform). Mr Bruce mentioned that the British ambassador in Madrid was forced to wear hand-me-downs, purchased from a colleague who in turn had obtained the uniform from the estate of the late Lord Lothian! The British and the French Foreign Offices were considering the introduction of something simpler, while this had already been done by the Netherlands in 1948. 

            Mr Taljaard presented a brief memorandum referring to the history of the question, bringing the foregoing under consideration and pointing out that there were tailors at The Hague, London and Madrid willing to submit suitable designs. Mr Jones requested Mr Taljaard to submit a more comprehensive memorandum but nothing further has been done.

Discussion.

            There is much to be said in favour of a distinctive Foreign Service uniform. The primary value of a distinctive uniform which can be recognised as that of a particular service is in the ésprit de corps which it evokes.  This fact has been recognised universally by the armed services immemorially. For a relatively young Foreign Service such as the Union’s this should be a vital consideration. Experience in the South African Marines proved that nothing instils so overwhelming a pride in a young service as does a distinctive uniform.  

            The unpopularity of the wearing of evening dress as uniform for formal day functions such as the presentation of credentials has been expressed on many occasions – General Theron called it a “tom-fool get-up” and Mr Egeland spoke of it as an “incongruous hotel waiter’s outfit”. Discontent with prevailing dress at the most senior levels of the Service would be eliminated by the introduction of a suitable uniform.

            An exceptionally strong argument for a uniform is the discomfort which officers serving in tropical zones have to endure. It is nothing less than inquisitorial torture to have to attend formal functions in a tropical climate attired in evening dress, morning coat or even a short black jacket. This is especially true when the hosts themselves are formally attired in neat white uniforms as is invariable in all other territories in Africa.

            Even in Pretoria the wearing of heavy dark clothing in summer is sheer punishment and it is strange that the Union which considers itself primus in Africa in everything to do with the continent, has not yet learnt to cloth its Public Servants in attire suitable to the prevailing climatic conditions as have all the European colonial powers who have a far shorter acquaintance with Africa. The Union has eleven posts in Africa, Madagascar and South America where the climate warrants the wearing of tropical dress at formal occasions in summer, and very often in winter too!   

            With the expansion of the Union’s representation in Africa, where the indigenous population attaches great value to prestige symbols a uniform would undoubtedly be advantageous to the country’s representation  It is conceivable that this might also be true  of representation in Latin-America, as well as in Spain and Portugal.

Cost.

            The disadvantages accruing to the adoption of a uniform are chiefly related to the expense. A simplified contemporary design can, however, cost very little indeed.  A.C.F. Marine officers were able to fit themselves out entirely for only £56.0.0d with mess dress, blue serge service dress, cap, shoes, shirts, greatcoat and all accessories. This included tailoring at £22.0.0d for both uniforms. For £76. 0. 0d ACF Naval Officers are able to fit themselves out with black doe-skin No. 1 dress, two white tropical uniforms, cap, shirts, shorts hose and all accessories.

            The cost of white drill uniforms is very little indeed. Light, washable drill, such as that used for SA Navy uniforms, is relatively inexpensive and may be obtained in quantity quite inexpensively if it is desired to ensure a readily available reserve in areas where uniforms are frequently worn.

Why Not Now?

            It is twenty-seven years since the question of the wearing of a distinctive Foreign Service Uniforms was first touched on. During the intervening years the Union’s Foreign Service has continued its steady growth and the need for a symbol of the Service’s distinctive identity has presented itself with increasing force. This need has been expressed time and time again by many of the Foreign Service’s most experienced and distinguished officers. It is perhaps opportune now for the matter to receive detailed consideration with a view to final settlement.

Proposal Attached.

            The attached specifications and designs for distinctive full dress and tropical uniforms for the Foreign Service of the Union of South Africa are, therefore, respectfully submitted for consideration.

DFS Fourie




COMMENTS ON PROPOSED DESIGNS

1.      Colour of Full Dress. A suitable colour is dependent on the colour of accessories e.g., Gorgets, shirt and tie. The combination of dark green and gold has been suggested by M J.B. Mills as being distinctively South African. The problem of the colour of the shirt arises. If this can be resolved without giving the service the appearance of a “Shirt” movement, dark green would be most attractive. If a dove grey is used gorgets, may be green or red. It is unfortunate that green gorgets are worn by the Department of Prisons. The UDF now ears orange gorgets and no longer wears scarlet. The distinction is very noticeable and scarlet gorgets may be appropriately distinctive. They can be worn with grey or blue.

2.      Style of Full Dress. The single-breasted style is recommended as being suitable to all figures and less easily creased than the double-breasted style.  The lapels are cut to a modified double breasted patter to distinguish it from the military pattern and to emphasize the distinctively civil nature of the Service. For the same reason pockets are not “patch pockets” but have only the flap.

3.      Buttons. To avoid unnecessary expense it is considered the die used for manufacturing brass buttons (bearing the national coat of arms) worn by the UDF may be used for gilt buttons for the Foreign Service. The dimensions given are those of the UDF buttons.

4.      Cuffs.  The gold lace recommended is that worn by the South African Navy and it is hoped to avoid expense by making use of the lace available in UDF stores. The style of the cuff is a modified version of the Netherlands style, but it is also to be found on the mess dress of some South African units.

5.      Gloves and Shoes. The styles recommended are also available from UDF stores.

6.      Cap.  The type of peak recommended for senior officers is that worn in the UDF and will again be available without unnecessary expense.

7.     Rank Insignia.  This has been selected for simplicity of design and is in keeping with the common practice of using the national flower as a motif, e.g., the Netherlands use the “Marietjie”.  Although the United Kingdom Service wear gorgets only on the tropical dress and the Netherlands Service wear detachable cuffs and a detachable embroidered collar, it is suggested that an attractive method is the Gorget (which gives the collar a better finish) and epaulettes of the Naval style (stiffened with whalebone) in order to give the figure a trim appearance.        


DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS

1.     FULL DRESS

1)     Tunic. Single breasted, open collar with lapels cut to allow the lower wing of the lapel to project half an inch (see illustration) to be buttoned with four 1-inch gilt buttons bearing Union’s arms (UDF pattern) . Four pockets with 3-point flaps, fastened with 5/8-inch buttons. The cuffs round, three inches deep with Naval gold lace around the top width varying with rank , bent toward cuff on the trailing edge. A flap 6½ inches long and 3½ inches wide at the points, edged with 9/16–inch naval gold lace, on each cuff. Appropriate shirt and tie to be worn with tunic. 

2)     Trousers. Of the same material as the tunic.

3)     Shoes. Black patent-leather or black naval officers’, plain front, no toe-cap.

4)     Gloves. Brown or black pigskin.

5)     Cap. Universal Military Pattern, as worn by officers of the SAAF. Plain black mohair cap-band; black patent leather peak, 2-inch wide at the centre, to droop at an angle of 45 degrees; patent leather chin strap. Gold oak leaf lace (UDF pattern) worn on edge of peak by ranks from Counsellor upwards, and also on top of the peak by Ambassadors, Ministers and Equivalent ranks. Plain lace (UDF pattern) worn on the edge of peak by First Secretaries. Gold embroidered badge, Union coat of arms surrounded by protea wreath, 1-inch x 3-inch.    

6)     Rank insignia. Protea Flower and leaf design embroidered in gold, worn with in cuff flaps as illustrated. Gorgets to be worn in full dress by Ambassadors, Ministers and equivalent ranks.  


      RANK                                     LACE ON CUFF EMBROIDERY

Ambassador, High                 1¼ inch Five Protea
Commissioner, London

Minister, High                       1¼ inch Four Protea
Commissioner 

Counsellor, Commissioner     9⁄16inch Three Protea 
Consul-General 

First Secretary                     9⁄16 inch       Two Protea

Second and Third                   9⁄16inch One Protea. 
Secretaries


2.     TROPICAL DRESS

1)     Tunic. Single breasted, to be buttoned with five 1-inch gilt buttons bearing Union’s arms (UDF pattern); stand-up (Mandarin) collar with detachable gorgets of varying pattern according to rank, as indicated in illustrations; two epaulettes of the same design; two breast pockets (patch style)  with three-point flaps with box pleats with -inch buttons . Sleeves plain with pointed cuffs 5 inches high at point and 2 ½ inches behind.

2)     Trousers.  Of the same material as the tunic but full dress trousers may be worn optionally.   

3)     Shoes. Black patent-leather or black Naval officers’, plain front, no toe-cap.

4)     Gloves. Brown or black pigskin.

5)     Cap.  Universal Military Pattern, as worn by officers of the SAAF. Plain black mohair cap-band; black patent leather peak, 2-inch wide at the centre, to droop at an angle of 45 degrees; patent leather chin strap. Gold oak leaf lace (UDF pattern) worn on edge of peak by ranks from Counsellor upwards, and also on top of the peak by Ambassadors, Ministers and Equivalent ranks. Plain lace (UDF pattern) worn on the edge of peak by First Secretaries. Gold embroidered badge, Union coat of arms surrounded by protea wreath, 1-inch x 3-inch.

6)     Rank insignia. Protea Flower and leaf design embroidered in gold, worn with on epaulettes as illustrated.  

7)     Gorgets. Dark [green?]  cloth with embroidery in miniature with th button at   point (See illustration).    

 RANK                                       EMBROIDERY ON GORGETS AND EPAULETTES

Ambassador, High               Five Protea
Commissioner, London

Minister, High                     Four Protea
Commissioner 

Counsellor, Commissioner Three Protea 
Consul-General 
First Secretary                   Two Protea

Second and Third               One Protea. 
Secretaries


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