Request to Readers of the Blog

Does anyone have a copy of Meintjeskop Ditaba No I/1998? I am looking for a report on then Deputy President Thabo Mbeki’s visit to India with photograph.

A scan of the article and photo would be very helpful.

Thanks.

Tom 

Moshe Dayan ... an impressive man

I this wrote report after I left the Department when Eddie Dunn 

asked me to attend a public meeting addressed by Moshe Dayan and External Affairs Minister Eric Louw forbade the officials to attend the meeting or any reception for Dayan. Eddie wanted the report below which I wrote.

Deon Fourie   

MR DUNN,

MAJOR-GENERAL MOSHE DAYAN

Following our discussion earlier today, 3rd September, 1957, I attended the public gathering addressed by the Israeli Chief of Staff.

General Dayan’s talk was preceded by a number of eulogous, off the point and often self-satisfied speeches by leaders of various local organisations. An exception was the speech by the Israeli Minister, although it tended to ramble round the topic of Israeli communalism.

The effect of Genl Dayan's speech was therefore, exceptionally strong. The General makes an impression even before opens his mouth.

He is bronzed, slightly built and stands very straight. He has a strong, determined face which is given an air of distinction as well as air of rakishness by his black eye-patch.

His bearing is indicative of great modesty and he and he and his wife were obviously pained by the lack of taste displayed speakers. This characteristic was obviously borne out later on by his refusal to sign autograph books and pictures of himself. He remarked that it was silly and quite wrong and his subsequent escape to a back room enabled me to speak to him in relative seclusion for a few minutes before he was again forced to retreat - this time to the Minister's car. Unfortunately the interruptions prevented me from asking him the questions we had discussed earlier, i.e. regarding French influence and aid.

The talk itself was not a technical speech as it would obviously have been lost on its hearers. It was, as we surmised a political speech. But it was strikingly different from the other speeches during the evening because Dayan spoke not only with conviction, but with a conviction borne of a genuine love and knowledge of the country from which he comes. I regret to say that there as in this clear evidence of a distinction between the General and his audience.

Because of the language difficulty it as not always plain what the speaker was driving at. Nevertheless, there was a clear logical development in the talk.

General Dayan reviewed the situation as at present regarding Syria and Egypt and said he believed that those states would not be the last to establish closer relations with Russia.

He explained the effect on the West once Russia could be in a positon to interfere with the supply of Middle Eastern oil.  He said that for the West present developments meant that Syria and Egypt were serving Russia. But for Israel it meant that she would be more and more isolated from the allies against the Arabs.

It was to be expected that the United States would interfere where the USSR does in order to dislodge the latter's grip on the Arabs.

In the same way, when the British Army left in 1948 it was estimated that the Arabs would gain control in eight to ten days. Britain left Palestine - spite of that, NOT because it was what she wanted, but because in her own interests to act in a certain way in the Middle East.

Israel’s Ambassador in the United States had tried time and again to obtain aircraft from the United States but in vain. The aircraft, he said, were needed for the purpose of discouraging Arab attacks, not for violation of Arab territory. But for France there would still be no aircraft in Israel. It is interesting that the brief mention of France as couched in such terms, and with such force, that it was plain that General Dayan feels a great deal of gratitude to that country. Perhaps with good reason – apropos of your question this evening.

Dayan said he was not sure that the United States would not join Russia in arming the Arabs. How could she not arm them while she was forced to compete with Russia for their support? While Syria and Egypt might be armed by Russia, and Jordan, Saudi Arabia and the Lebanon by the United States, ultimately he believed all would use those arms for the destruction of Israel.

Will the Arabs fight?  No-one can answer. But they are arming heavily. And they have a political situation which can produce demagogues - and does. Dictators in the Arab states cannot think in terms of long range successes. Aswan Dam would probably begin to produce benefits in twelve years. The demagogues must produce results now - such as victory in battle. That is why political trends in Arab states should give all cause for concern.

But withal, Israel is optimistic. Because she has a strong army. Not in men, nor arms. But because everyone is ready to fight, unconditionally. Because everyone is ready to mobilise at short notice. The people in the settlements are ready to defend their settlements and not become refugees, obstacles to the troops. The spirit of resistance on the borders is high. It is clear that it is harder for the Egyptians to get through than for Israel to cross Sinai.  Civilian transport didn't look very military in Sinai, but they looked very nice on the banks of Suez. Even the women are ready to fight for: the country. Israel feels she is strong because she is ready to fight without Allies if she must.  She is a state with an ideal; with a mission in which she believes.

The General then went on to speak of Zionism and Zionist tendencies behind the Iron Curtain. He spoke more forcefully but in much better taste than any of the other speakers, for very plain reasons. He was obviously well qualified to speak as he did of Israeli unity, tenacity and belief in the future.

Finally the object of his address emerged. Genl Dayan warned that Jews must watch events in the Middle East. The struggle between the USSR and the United States is concentrated there. Israel may have to be the coin in which the price is paid. But she is not prepared to pay that price. Preparation for a Russian-aided Arab conflict with Israel is called for. Not only Spiritual aid will be necessary for Israel then. Physical aid will be necessary too if Israel is to be able to survive. His final remarks were but a thinly veiled reminder that the Jews everywhere should be prepared to fight for Israel.

There were no questions asked and it was necessary for me to follow Genl Dayan

round to the back of the stage. He was surrounded by autograph hunters and it was some time before I could break my way through and introduce myself.  I told him of my interest in asking him a few questions and he took me into a back room.  But as tea was served there a number of people managed to break up our talk within a few minutes.

I attempted to break the ice by asking purely military questions first. Unfortunately the really important questions were never arrived at.

I asked how deep Russian penetration had been in Egypt. General Dayan said that the Egyptians and Arabs were travelling to Russia constantly to receive ordinary academic as well as military training.

            Asked about Russians with the Egyptian forces, he said that they found none fighting in Sinai. But there were many instructors and technicians. In a war of that nature one does not expect them to fight. He added “But they will come. They will come”.  He confirmed that their influence was political as well as technical.

            He said that the Russians had over-equipped the Arabs. They had more than they could absorb. But they are not interested in arming the Egyptians or the Syrians. They are stockpiling bases for themselves, he added.

General Dayan told me that the Egyptians were fairly well trained but that they were not very adept at making use of their training. He said that they could manage planes and tanks - and when there are a lot of those that is enough. Their fighting ability depends largely on their material and numerical advantages.

He gave me to understand that the Egyptians are not well led and morale is not what it should be. . I wanted to ask him to enlarge on his remark concerning French aid, but while I was speaking to him we were separated by the crowd who were bent on obtaining his autograph. I may add that although I spoke to him long enough for us to have a cup of tea, the conversation was continually interrupted and I was only able to put three or four questions to him in that time. During all the hullabaloo he was most obliging and was quite ready to answer questions as fully as he could. I am sure that if the opportunity had been more conducive to discussion much of value would have been elicited. I regret that circumstances have forced me to tell you what you already know.

DFF

3/9/57

Post report Pretoria 1956

By John Mills and John Selfe

It is not easy, when reading the reports submitted from overseas in terms of Circular DA ST-1 to miss the note of wistful nostalgia which seems to pervade them. It has occurred to us that this may indicate a subconscious desire for a posting at Head Office and it has therefore been thought desirable to provide a picture of living conditions in Pretoria in this Centenary Year. The material that is set out hereunder is the result of painstaking research, and it is hoped to be of great assistance to those about to return to Meintjeskop.

(1)   LIVING CONDITIONS

(a)      Food General

The following are regarded as staple commodities abroad;

Caviar

Oysters

Filets mignon

Scotch (a) salmon  (b) whisky

Napoleon brandy

Havana cigars

These are alleged to be available in the Union, but this first-hand experience is questionable, and prices are therefore unknown. Staple commodities in Pretoria are the following:

               Brown bread:   7½ d. per loaf

               Milk:  6 d.   per pint

               Mealie meal: 2/7½ d.  per 10 lbs.

               Boerewors: 2/1½ d. d per lb.

(b)   Housing conditions

Upon returning to Pretoria all officers go to the Union Hotel where they stay for a period of

 one to six days. Accounts are presented on Fridays and on the first Saturday after their return officers and their families move to the Vandermer Hotel which these days plays the role of

            Then they start looking for a place to rent, delighted at last to be away a country where the universal hobby is robbing the foreigner. Alas though no longer foreigners they find the hobby has spread to Pretoria too. The two or three places the officer thinks might be suitable his wife won’t look at. (No loggias, dear, and only two bathrooms.”), and what she recommends would absorb about 65% of what he has just discovered to his horror to be his salary. Finally in despair they decide to buy a house on the never-never; for sale again when they are posted, of course, and join the growing colony on the lower slopes of Waterkloof who have already been through the process. As no one expects ever to be sent abroad again from this area, no comment on the resale possibilities can be offered. Should the officer have the exceptional good luck to find just what he wants to live in after reaching Pretoria he will of course immediately find himself on the (Parliamentary) Session staff.

(c)    Hotel, Boarding-house and Restaurant Prices

Well, unaffordable.

(d)   Food and Price Controls

Food is controlled entirely by its price.

(e)   Water, Gas and Electricity

Water is frequently precipitated from the Pretoria skies, sometimes in solid form … hail, which is not very welcome. Gas is not much used except by dentists and filling the tanks of the cars of officers who have recently returned from the States. The local electric current is reputed to be 23- 250 volts A.C. but returning officers will find that no matter where they have been stationed, their gadgets never work properly in Pretoria. One of the favourite games played in Head Office is known as the Plugtop Pastime consists of trying to persuade the Accounts Section of this.

(f)    Rubbish Removal

The policy of not removing rubbish remains unchanged. A steady stream is received from overseas, mostly by diplomatic bag, but all is absorbed by the Registry, which has recently acquired an additional room (Annex) to cope with the overflow.

(g)    Telephone Charges

As all officers seem to remember only after getting to the office what they had to telephone the butcher, garage etc. about, and in consequence find themselves compelled to use their office phones for the purpose, it has proved impossible to establish precisely what the charges are.

(h)    Municipal rates and taxes.

Taxes are not used by Head Office staff – see Transportation facilities at (j) below. The rates will depend on the vintage of the tjorrie concerned.

(i)     Coal and firewood

For most of the year while the weather is warm, officers do not consider buying fuel. When the cold snap comes there is always a shortage in Pretoria and they are not able to buy any. They then break up the planks from the packing cases brought from abroad which have not already been used for home-made furniture or seized by PWD.

(j)     Transportation facilities

Officers returning for duty at Head Office are advised to dispose of their Packards and Jaguars in the countries where they were stationed. Car with less aristocratic lineage can be brought back without occasioning comment and disposed of in the Union to best advantage. A portion of the profit can then be employed for acquiring a tjorrie, which should not be less than a four-seater, in order for the owner to become a member of a lift club on an economically … basis

(k)    Medical and Dental.

Experience will very soon demonstrate to the newly returned officer that is inadvisable to return sick or to add to his family while at Head Office.

(l)     Climate and more than Ordinarily Prevalent Diseases

Although the climate in Pretoria is bracing the following diseases are endemic:

Delirium pestens   The onset of this disease can generally be predicted to occur two to four years after return from abroad. Symptoms begin to manifest during the Session and increase in severity until January of the following year or until the postings become known. Patients then undergo and brief but passionate spasm vulgarly known as “blowing a fuse” which results in an immediate drop in temperature and a slow return to normal. Friendly relations are resumed with the Staff Section until May or June when the cycle recommences in an increasingly malignant form. Suggested treatment: isolation from patients similarly affected; colleagues should avoid commenting on symptoms; applications of Staff Section Soothing Syrup at intervals recommended. N.B. The frequent application aggravates the malady.

Directivitis  Occupational disease of the International Organisations, Political, Africa and Economic Sections. Attacks though severe are only of brief duration. During the height of the attack secondary effects are felt in the Typing and Coding Sections and the Registry. Suggested treatment: withdrawal from all international organisations.

Promotiomyelitis or Incremental Date Fixation. Little is known of the disease, which seems to be localised in origin. A preliminary symptom is normally an attack of tweetaligheid, during which patients tend to congregate in anxious groups and conduct quiz sessions. The Staff Section is treated with exaggerated deference; this however, a temporary condition, and normal relations are restored when the disease is successfully overcome. At least one attack per term of duty at Head Office is the norm. Prognosis is generally favourable, though subsidiary attacks of delirium pestens occasionally occur. Suggested treatment: resignation.

(m)  Special Clothing

Officers and their families are advised to bring back with them as much in the way of hard-wearing clothing as they can, to tide them over their spell at headquarters. Snow shoes, lederhosen, yachting-caps, bowler hats and tartan waistcoats may safely be left behind. N.B. Bow ties are out. (Sartorial note)

(n)   Availability of servants and wages payable

Scene: An untidy house

Officer’s wife: “The maid has given notice.”

Officer: “ But we haven’t paid the maid.) (Joke)

(o)   Availability and cost of furniture

      See comment under (e) above.

(p)   Inflationary and deflationary trends

The officer returning from hobnobbing with Ambassadors and exchanging ideas on the formulation of national policy over liqueurs and cigars with Well-Informed Circles in Ruritania immediately finds his responsibility and discretion limited to signing reminders. This is very deflationary. He will also discover that what he used to buy for 8/6 now costs a Pound (Diminishing Returns), but that he is only paid 8/6 for every Pound he needs (Inelasticity od Demand). This restricts his Purchasing Power, and he contributes unwillingly, if unwittingly, to reducing the Cost of Living. To begin with, however, he spends a pound for every 8/6 he earns (Over-investment) and entertains the Ruritanian representative on liquor and cigars bought on C.S.M.A.A. This is the beginning of the Vicious Spiral that ends in the Bank Manager’s private office with a lecture on the difference between Currency and Credit. After squaring the Bank Manager by flogging the “souvenirs” he smuggled home he tries entertaining his Ruritanian friend on coffee and Marie biscuits (Under-Compensation). This terminates his relations with Ruritania, and leaves his family utterly deflated.

(q)   Foreign Exchange Controls

In Pretoria one is so fully occupied with trying to meet “essential financial commitments in the Union” in local currency that foreign exchange is a matter of purely academic interest.

(r)    Schooling

Oh yes, the little dears get sent to school. If it serves another purpose it gets them off their mother’s hands for a few hours each day!

(2)   SOCIAL

(a)   Official Social Activities

Head Office is divided into two groups: those whose names do not appear in the “list’ and who spend their evenings wishing they were sometimes invited to diplomatic parties, and those whose names do appear and spend their time wondering how the deuce to get out of going to diplomatic parties.

(b)   Protocol

It is usual for an officer returning from abroad to pay calls on the following:

(1)    The Collector of Customs who will take a surprising interest in his personal possessions, particularly to such items as miniature bottles; full-sized bottles also attract his attention.

(2)    The Bank Manager who at this stage will be delighted to see him (and the dollars he has managed to bring with him.)

(3)    The Departmental Accountant who will, almost without exception hand him an advance on S and T (subsistence and travel allowance). This will serve to lull him into a false sense of security.

(4)    His colleagues who will ask him if he is happy in the Service.

In due course, the following may be expected to pay calls on the returning officer:

(1)    The Receiver of Revenue, Pretoria. Why didn’t you remember to send those forms in?

(2)    The Traffic Cop, who will want to know why the officer was seen driving down Church Street at midnight on the right-hand side of the road. It is amusing how thin the officer’s excuse sounds.

(3)    The Departmental Accountant with a list of disallowances, over-payments, unauthorised drawings, etc., etc., substantially in excess of the original advance. The officer will realise that it would have been cheaper to stay where he was – but it’s too late now, my friend, it’s TOO LATE!

(4)    His colleagues will ask him if he is still Happy in the Service.

So much for the protocol applicable to returned officers. There is of course a highly specialised Protocol Section which is often in full dress to deal with foreign diplomats. V.I.P.’s etc. It now contains Von Schirnding to talk German, Houzé to talk French, Cronje to talk Dutch and Best to talk Canadian. (English and Afrikaans are also occasionally heard); and with a new Head (sorry Chef) as well, it may justly be held to be more broadly based than ever before.

                                                                 3)   GENERAL

(a)   Taxes and duties

Duties at Head Office tax all the resources of the officer stationed there and sometimes even his imagination too.

(b)   Diplomatic or Consular Privileges

These are of course not enjoyed, though we did hear once of an officer who said he thought it was a privilege to work in Pretoria. (He had just heard that there was a possibility of a Mission being opened in Madagascar.)

(c)    Sports Facilities

There are unfortunately very few facilities in Pretoria for indulging in those sports at which officers abroad will have become adept, such as skiing, ocean yachting, curling, pelota and deer-stalking; and those who have become masters of tossing the caber will find it has ruined their prospects at jukskei. There are of course other sports which are played at Head Office, the most popular perhaps being Passing the Buck. (Afrikaans Bok-Bok).

(d)   Sea or Air Fares to the Union

Head Office personnel are only interested in fares from the Union.

(e)   Office Accommodation

Approximately 83 officers of the Department are serving abroad. By a curious coincidence it would be just possible to accommodate them at Head Office - on an exchange basis.

(f)    Scarcities peculiar to the post.

Money.

But after all you shouldn’t have joined the service if you can’t take a joke!

              

Diplomatics hazards

Diplomatic Hazards: Somewhere Asia.

By LB Labuschagne

Meintjeskop Ditaba No II /1998

While in Beijing, the wife of a Scandinavian Ambassador related the following story to my wife concerning an official visit her husband made in the region.

The Ambassador, a dignified, very correct and status conscious gentleman, and his Third Secretary embarked on a visit. Their troubles started when seats they booked had been allocated elsewhere and they had to travel in the back of the plane. On landing they found that, while they arrived, their luggage had not. On getting into the rather small taxi the Ambassador's pants split. This necessitated entering the hotel in tandem, with the Third Secretary occupying a close strategic position behind his Ambassador which elicited rather curious looks from the local populace.

The hotel, not being blessed with a constellation of stars, did not have the usual sewing kit in the bathroom nor such other toiletries as razors or toothbrushes.

Enquiries were made and after some time a cheerful lady who spoke neither English nor any known Scandinavian language, appeared and disappeared with the trousers, leaving our hapless diplomat stranded for a few hours necessitating the cancellation of an appointment or two.

On entering the dining room for his evening meal it was discovered that the only other Westerners (a generic term used for Non Asians) present were another Ambassador from Beijing and his wife Now, normally a friendly face when one is far from home is most welcome, however, every diplomatic corps has its local bores.

Pleasant people but whose scintillating conversation usually runs out after five minutes.

There they were beaming in delight at the sight of a friendly face. They happily informed our luckless diplomat that they would be in the same hotel for the next three days and insisted on sharing a table for every meal.

By the third day the luggage had still not arrived and our Nordic pair were looking decidedly ragged around the jowls, sporting Don Johnson type of beards but without the same aesthetic effect. On a final note it can be mentioned that the particular city was rather known for the presence of large birds of the Raptor species. To finish off the trip one of these decided to evacuate the contents of its stomach when our two heroes were walking in the street. A possibly misguided but totally accurate exercise took place. Fortunately for our intrepid Ambassador's sake, the Third Secretary's shoulder, which had been leaned upon rather considerably during the visit, played its last role and shouldered the final burden.

On returning home the Ambassador commented to his wife that he never knew that a bird's stomach could contain so much.

Central Asian sojourn

By Louis Mullinder

[excerpt; 1996 Christmas newsletter]

Meintjeskop Ditaba II/1998

But I have seen Afrasiab' s cities only,

Samarkand, Bokhara and lone Khiva in the waste,

 And the black Toorkmun tents; and only drunk

The desert rivers, Moorghub and Tejend,

                                             Kohik, and where the Kalmuks feed their sheep,

                                             The Northern Sir, and the great Oxus stream,

The yellow Oxus.

Matthew Arnold, 'Sohrab and Rustum'

Marion and I had always wanted to see the old silk road, and so we set out in the middle of August, together with two very dear friends - Simoneta, an Italian friend who lives in Paris, and our English friend, Peter. Our aim was to trundle through Uzbekistan in a minibus and to soak up the essence of that ancient and glorious civilisation, but also to visit the bazaars" In short - it was wonderful I We set out from St Petersburg by air via Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan: any traveller's worst nightmare, with officious bureaucrats, no bathroom facilities, overcrowding, the inevitable pervasive odour of stale Russian garlic sausage, but fortunately no live chickens or goats!! Peter had flown directly from London and so we all met up in Tashkent. We travelled the next day to Samarkand, via a small market town in Kazakhstan, Ettisai - the place of seven shadows or seven shallow lakes - specifically to visit a rug bazaar; the palette of colours was simply amazing and having successfully haggled over a beautiful Merv- Tekke torba - a tent bag - for some time, we left for Samarkand. After a comfortable journey of some five hours from Tashkent, we arrived in Samarkand. 

Sarnarkand is a lovely city, filled with spectacular monuments, particularly from the time of Timur the Lame (alsoknown as Tamberlane), much having been destroyed prior to that by Genghis Khan. The Registan, the place of sand, with the mosques and madrassahs, or religious schools, is most impressive, as are the necropolis, with it., stunning mosaics, and the mosque housing the graves of Tirnur, and his son Ulughbek.

The Bibi-i-Kharnun mosque, in particular, with its superb decorative calligraphy cannot be forgotten. The architect is said to have fallen in love with Bibi-i-Kharnun, the favourite wife of Tirnur, while overseeing the building of the mosque, and, she, so very impressed by his work asked what reward he should have; his request that he be allowed to kiss her was granted, but the mark remained on her cheek, and Timur decreed that all women should henceforth be veiled - the story, told in the shade of the mosque forecourt, seemed to add just that touch of mystique.

The Uzbeks are wonderfully friendly people, all dressed in the most colourful national costume, and with very open, relaxed religious views. We avoided hotels, preferring to stay a la bed and breakfast: Zoya's in Samarkand is absolutely to be recommended - the most wonderful vegetarian cuisine! From Samarkand we made some day trips: to Pendjikent in Tajikistan, where we saw a wonderful archaeological diggings dating from the seventh to the ninth century AD and destroyed by invading Arabs. Unlike most ruins, in Pendjikent one perceives well what once stood there - for the uninitiated it is difficult when most archaeologists point to a mound of rubble and tell one it was a temple, or something else.

The Tajiks are very surly, like Russians, but then they are having a little civil war there, I suppose I En route we stopped at Urgut, a market town in Uzbekistan, to look for suzanis, embroidered Uzbek wall hangings - needless to say we managed to find some lovely ones' We also visited Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Timur, which was the most amazing portals, but sadly little else of the original palace.

Lunch was memorable in that our guide, Raisa, a charming lady, haggled in the kitchen and managed to find some eggs, which she proceeded to boil: the restaurant was a throw-back to the all-pervasive bad Soviet cuisine,' most un-Uzbek in character.

Stopping by briefly at Ulughbek's observatory - poor man was murdered by the priests, since his scientific approach threatened to erode their power base - we left Samarkand and, on with the silk road, after a journey of five hours, we arrived at Bukharal,

A wonderful city, with people living and working in the old city itself: bustling, full of life, magnificent architecture and wonderful pavement cafes, and tea-houses - or chaihani - where we enjoyed melon, salad, and lamb kebab. Bukhara is charm itself - how much more charming had the Soviets not drained the pools leaving the stork colonies no food - but so charming none the less because the city as such is preserved, unlike Samarkand where 'civilisation' has encroached. The history, just so interesting at every turn, from the imprisonment of Queen Victoria's emissaries in a foul-smelling pit in the Ark, or citadel, through to the complete misnomer of the 'Bokara' carpets, which are in fact Turkmeni, and were only ever sold in the markets of Bukhara!! Our small collection of knotted artifacts and woven suzanis naturally increased as we made our way through the country along the roads lined with mulberry trees!

We then set out through the Kizylkum desert [desert of red sand] to Khiva, which lies almost on the border with Turmenistan, a journey of some seven hours, which passed quite easily as we sped past the camels, stopping briefly on the banks of the Arnu Dar'ya or Oxus river Khiva is like a Hollywood set in the desert - it is now an open air museum, but unlike Bukhara, has little atmosphere, although one must say it is stunning architecturally, absolutely stunning, especially by moonlight. Indeed it was on that brightly moonlit night that our rug collection increased by a beautifully rich Ersari Turkoman hali serai - or palace carpet !

From Khiva we set out on a day-trip to Kunya-Urgench in Turkmenistan to view the archaeological ruins - the Turkrnenis, like the Tajiks, are also surly and seem very closed in comparison to the Uzbeks.Peter and I also visited a nature reserve in Karakalpakstan - the place of the black- hatted people - which is also to be found on the banks of the Arnu Oar'ya, incidentally the main river which feeds the Aral Sea, now a complete ecological disaster due to excessive drainage by Soviet engineers to irrigate an ever- increasing cotton production in Uzbeki.tan. the Uzbeks seem to be continuing in the same vein!

Karakalpakstan enjoys the status of an autonomous region within Uzbekistan, lying mainly in the Karakum desert - the desert of black sand. The reserve was not particularly inspiring, nor did we see any black-hatted people! The story goes that in the resurgence of nationalism and re- adoption of old symbols, they couldn't find anyone who remembered what the black hat looked like!

We returned to Tashkent in a creaking propeller-driven aeroplane, completely overweight - rugs weigh so much - except for our very selves: the rich Uzbek cuisine played havoc with each of us from time to time, and can be recommended in place of a visit to a fat farm I We were not enamoured of Tashkent particularly, and spent a few days with some friends there - Michael and Felicity Timcke - enjoying a welcome respite after ten days of travel in hot and dusty climes. The Museum of Applied Arts is certainly worth a visit.

The fact that when we got to the airport and discovered that we had been soldtickets for flights that did not exist, nor had they ever existed, and with Simoneta then being arrested on arrival in Moscow, after we finally managed to leave Tashkent, for not having a visa, is another charming twist to our sojourn - the joys of travelling in the former Soviet Union!

Peter had by this time already arrived in England, having had the foresight to use a European airline.

While the Soviets have destroyed much since the twenties, one wonders how much the Uzbeks would have preserved: the borders were drawn artificially under Stalin anyway ... one also wonders how democracy and increasing globalisation will change the region - not always for the better, we feel!

And so we visited Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Karakalpakstan and Turkmenistan, having stopped on the way in Tatarstan .. almost like a nursery rhyme ... and popped across borders with seemingly no control a simply wonderful holiday, and completely different from the gracious and beautiful St Petersburg 

Tribute to South African / Greek relations

THE SOUTH AFRICAN OFFICIAL RESIDENCE IN ATHENS

By Dee Vourliotis

sent in by A van ZyL Athens. Greece

Exactly 50 years ago the Official Residence in Athens. which has served as the home for II Heads of Mission. was purchased by the South African Government for 8.500 gold sovereigns. To commemorate this occasion. as well as South African-Greek relations in generaL and to inaugurate the newly-established permanent exhibition centre at the Residence. Ambassador Dawie Jacobs and his wife. Eldaleen. hosted two commemorative functions on 10 and 11 June 1998. Both events received prominent media coverage.

Official relations between South Africa and Greece date back to 1905 "hen the first Greek Consulate was opened in Cape Town. Another Consulate was later opened in Johannesburg in 1908. while the Greek Embassy was established in 1942. The first South African Diplomatic Mission in Greece was established as a Legation in 1946. headed by Mr George M Bower. who served as Charge d' AiTaires a.i. until 1956. He served under Ambassador General William Henry Everit Poole who was stationed in Rome,and was also accredited to Greece. In 1961 the South African Legation was upgraded to an Embassy and General Poole was accredited to Greece as the first resident South African Ambassador.

Immediately after the arrival of Mr Bower in Athens at the beginning of 1946. the search for suitable accommodation for a chancery and residence. started. This was difficult to come by as British troops were still in Greece following the end of World War II in 1945.

The Legation in the meantime moved into rented space. Eventually an ideal location was found in the prestigious suburb of Psychico situated in the centre of the "diplomatic area". next to the Belgian Legation and opposite the Palace of Queen Mother Frederika, then occupied by the Italian Legation According to documentation the house was built in 1934 by the owner, who was supposedly the largest building contractormat the time. at a cost of approximately £90.000 (Sterling) The selling price in 1948 was 8.500 gold sovereigns. which included agency and transfer fees. The Sterling equivalent in Greece at the time was £78.462.

It is said that General Jan Smuts, a close friend of the Greek Royal family. personally viewed the classical building at 5 Diamandidou Street during a visit to Greece in 1946 to address the Greek Parliament. where he was staying with Crown Prince Paul and Princess Frederika. who lived just across the street from the property. After his inspection of the building. he called the then Minister of Finance (Treasury) to obtain the 8.500 gold sovereigns for payment.

The said Minister apparently told him that such a large sum was unavailable, especially in gold sovereigns Jan Smuts, who was afraid that the owner would not wait for the money and as a result sell the property to someone else replied, "Then make ill". The purchase was finally sealed with the handing over of the property deeds to the South African Legation on behalf of the Union of South Africa. on 29 May 1948.

In 1951 the Chancery - until then in rented space - was transferred to the basement of the Official Residence, where it remained until September 1968. Since the purchase of the Official Residence, it has been occupied by the following Heads of Mission: Mr G M Bower till 1956 and Col C H Maree (1956-196 I) both as Charge d'AfTaires a i. followed by Ambassadors General E Poole 1961-1966; Col N JJJ Jooste (1967-197;0) Mr P Lindhorst (1971-1973): Mr J Selfe (1974-1980): Mr P H Viljoen (1981-1983): Mr F J Cronje (1984-1989): Dr S G A Golden (1990-1993): Mr P Coetzee (1993-1996): and Mr D Jacobs (1997 to date).

In 1979 a new garage was constructed and the old garage was kept as a garden tool storeroom until 1997 when Ambassador Jacobs obtained permission from the Department of Foreign Affairs to have it renovated to serve as a perm anent exhibition centre where the cultural diversity of South Africa's rainbow nation could be on display. It includes, amongst others, paintings by prominent South African artists; arts and crafts which include N guni beadwork, Zulu woven baskets, Ndebele dolls. wooden sculptures, embroideries made by women from previously disadvantaged communities and a display of historical photographs depicting the history of South African-Greek relations.

The two commemorative functions mentioned above took the form of a formal sit-down dinner on 10 June and a reception in the garden of the Official Residence on II June for 80 and 500 guests respectively.

The guest speaker at the dinner was Mr Panayiotis Sgourides. the Deputy President of the Greek Parliament. who paid tribute to South African-Greek relations. A prominent Athenian figure. Mr Ian Vorres. Mayor of Paiania and President of the renowned Vorres Museum. officially opened the permanent exhibition centre. During both these functions the children's paintings from the Santam international children's art competition were put on display on panels surrounding the patio of the Residence, creating a wonderful atmosphere and drawing very positive comments. A harpist provided background music during the dinner, while a Greek choir impressed the guests during the reception with their rendition, not only of Greek songs. but of "Shosholoza'', "Thula Thula Mtwana", as well as the South African National Anthem.

On South African-Greek relations Mr Sgourides, who recently visited South Africa. said that "Greece needs South Africa and South Africa needs Greece". He also expressed the confidence that "South Africa will eventually become the future United States of Africa. a new world leader in politics, commerce and culture".

Mr Vorres. in commenting on the "rainbow nation". quoted the great thinker Reinhold Niebuhr who said that "nothing that is worth doing can be achieved in a lifetime". Mr Vorres noted that the new rainbow nation had proved Niebuhr totally wrong!

A commemorative brochure depicting the history of the Official Residence and South African- Greek relations was especially compiled for and released on the occasion.