By Steve McQueen, Moscow
After having
been here a little over seven months now, I think it could be said that Moscow
is more different than any other city. We arrived in Moscow almost two years
after the really hard work had been done to establish South African
representation here.
Those pioneers could no doubt write
chapters on the challenges they faced to set up an office in Russia.
We couldn't pretend to have experienced the
hardships and difficulties of those early days. Suffice to say that the Moscow
as we have experienced it, is considerably different now and provides far more
goods and services than two years ago.
Having made that disclaimer then, the
following is a strictly personal view of life in Moscow as we have experienced
it.
A visitor to Moscow could be baffled by
this city where not only the old and new architecture exist side by side, but
also where attitudes to the immense changes which have taken place are every bit
as negative as they are positive.
It is a mistake to believe that the
political changes of the last two years have been unchallenged or that the
opposition to them is too insignificant to warrant attention. The contrary is
true. On Lubyanka Square, outside the headquarters of the former KGB, is a
podium upon which once stood a statue of Felix Drezhinsky, the founder of the
Cheka which later became the KGB.
This podium is all that remains of the statue
which was toppled after the failed 1991 coup in Moscow. The Moscow Times recently
carried a photograph of attempts by the Moscow Government to remove the podium
in its entirety. These attempts were frustrated by a lack of labour and
equipment and the local English press suggested that, like the vestiges of
Drezhinsky, Russia's past was resisting the changes and was more difficult to
remove than previously thought.
Remembering this sometimes helps to
understand life in Moscow and perhaps puts a little perspective on the city of
Moscow today, where past and present live side by side and where very often the
only way to understand the present is to look at the past.
Leaving the political issues aside, a
visitor to Moscow will find that there are factors here which make an impact on
your life every minute of the day, and your attitude toward them can determine
how quickly you adjust to life in Moscow. We were once told to take one day at
a time, but honestly, in Moscow sometimes all the days attack you at once.
In no particular order then, the following
are a few of the factors with which a visitor to Moscow will in all probability
have to contend:
The
Weather:
Weather-wise Moscow can be frustrating. The
summers, although short, can be hot and humid. We look forward to this time of
the year because drivers can at least then see the potholes which need to be
avoided. For about seven to eight months the snow is our constant companion.
Temperatures range between minus ten and minus twenty five degrees.
Temperatures are a constant discussion topic, although personally I am not yet
convinced that minus ten is any better than minus fifteen degrees. Anything
below zero is cold. From there on, it's all just a matter of degree. Believe it
or not, the city functions perfectly normally, the snow notwithstanding. If you
allow it, the darkness and the cold can lead to what has been called cabin
fever. Many hours are spent indoors and the necessity for indoor activities
takes on a new meaning during the winter.
A
dual economy:
The official Russian rouble currency now
trades at more than one thousand to the dollar. The dollar exists side by side
with the rouble. In fact the first question you would ask in a Russian establishment,
is whether the form of payment is rouble or dollar?
While there is seemingly great poverty
here, there are those who have taken the opportunity provided by the collapse
of communism, and have taken on all forms of trading in a bid to enter the free
market.
The existence of an economic mafia is
openly acknowledged. You can buy anything here, from ancient and priceless
icons, to marmoset monkeys from Africa,
On one visit to an animal market I was asked if I perhaps wanted to buy a
crocodile. I never doubted for a minute that if I agreed, one would be brought
to me from a nearby stall.
A leading question for any self-respecting
capitalist, must be, what is available in Moscow? Many hard currency ((i.e. US
Dollar and D. Mark) shops have sprung up in Moscow, and although these provide
almost anything the heart desires, the prices are high. A dozen apples, a loaf
of bread, a few slices of ham and a litre of milk can cost around $50.00
(R150-00).
The hard currency shops like the Finnish owned Stockman's, the Irish
House, the German owned Colognia and the Italian-style Foodland are but a few
of the shops where almost anything is available, from clothing (Mink coats, and
every designer label you can imagine, Hugo Boss, Yves St Laurent, Polo etc), to
sausages fromAustria, beer from Germany, ready-made microwave dinners from the
USA, chicken from Israel, Dutch cheeses and chocolates, and salmon from Norway.
The international variety of goods in these stores could easily make some
stores in South Africa pale into insignificance. Expensive yes, but then again,
a visit to these stores gives the lie to the old perception that Moscow today
is barren of Western style food. It has been said that these hard currency
stores deliberately inflate their prices in order to cash in on the presence of
the significantly large foreign community in Moscow.
If on the other hand you want to venture
into the Russian shops, you'll probably find a little more than you at first
expected. The secret is of course to know which one to go to for which product.
The stock in many of these shops is limited and it would be a foolish shopper
who believes that that which was on the shelves yesterday will be there the day
after. It is advisable to take along a local Muscovite, who can interpret and
possibly even help with the price haggling. Things can be slow here. First you
pick out the item, then you point out this item to the cashier to whom you pay
the roubles. She will give you a receipt which you then take to the counter, point
out the item once again and present the cash receipt slip and then you get the
object concerned.
If you have time and patience, the Russian
shops will surprise you.
Commuting:
Like any city of almost twelve million
people, the roads leave a lot to be desired. Your chief activity behind the
wheel is to swerve constantly as you try to avoid the potholes, some of which
are literally big enough to bury a small car. The traffic is bad, more so in
the summers when those who have stored their vehicles throughout the long
winters, retrieve them from their places of hibernation, under bridges, in parking
lots etc, and head for the streets.
Foreigners here face a choice of vehicles.
Either a Russian-made vehicle, or an imported type. For those who elect the
former, you can choose Niva, a Zhuguli
or a Volga. These vehicles abound and while owning one allows for a cheaper
repair bill, they do have a baffling propensity to break down at the worst
possible moment.
I have personally witnessed several Zhuguli's (very similar to
the old Fiat's) lose their front wheel entirely, not because of a flat tyre,
but simply because the wheel has just snapped off its axle. Why, I really don't
know. Suffice it is to say that these wheelless cars are an everyday sight.
For those who choose an imported car there
are the problems of a delay in spare parts, but more importantly, the inflated
costs of repairs can be a factor which could persuade you to stick with local vehicles.
Closely tied to the problems of road
commuting, is 01 course the ever present traffic officer, or gaiee, as they are
called here. The gaiee are everywhere and while their job is an onerous one,
from surviving the short and humid summers to the long, dark and painfully cold
winters, the gaiee is ever present at his post. These gaiee are the butt of
many jokes and often ridicule.
They are said to be among the only state
officials who can turn traffic control into an openly lucrative business.
When dealing with the gaiee, most of whom
do not speak any English, the correct and preferred attitude is one of
contrition. To try and challenge these officials can lead to all manners of
unpleas-antness, gaiee are authorized to stop anyone for any reason. So, for
example, if you have a western car, your chances of being pulled off by the
local gaiee are pretty good. You may have done nothing at all, your car may be
able to pass the most stringent of road tests, but still, when the gaiee points
a little black and white striped stick at you, you'd better stop.
A very good Russian word to learn, is
"skolka" - how much! This is good to remember when a particularly
tough gaiee is about to threaten you with several hours of traffic instruction
at a local night school. Skolka can solve all of that. Suddenly, the icy
atmosphere warms to a sense of brotherhood, and as you reach into your wallet,
he is all smiles.
Bribery you say? Never!! This is a
perfectly acceptable form of paying a "spot fine" . Perhaps the
plight of the gaiee is best explained by the anecdote of the Russian gaiee who
went to his boss to ask for a raise because he was in need of extra money to
fund his daughter's wedding. His boss replied sadly, "look, I can't help you
with a pay rise, but look behind that door, you'll find a no-parking sign. Take
that for the next weeks, it's worth hundreds!!"
The metro system is excellent. Some would
say the best in the world. If its speed and efficiency you're after, Moscow
metro fits the bill. In peak hours one train every 48 seconds will convey you
with speed to any destination within its 200 km range. While perhaps not being
as comfortable nor as clean as those of Washington DC for example, the metro
more than makes up for this by the fact that a great many of the underground
stations are museum pieces.
The incredible art and architecture of many of
these stations would probably be equal to any masterpiece the West has to
offer.
Health
Matters:
At time of writing, there is an outbreak of
diphtheria in Moscow. This news sent foreigners hurrying to get their shots.
The American Medical Centre (AMC) (one of a very few Western medical clinics) inoculated
5000 concerned foreigners over one weekend. Deciding that discretion was the better
part of valour, we too made our way to the AMC. A very cheerful British
expatriate nurse told us that the serum would last for ten years. Feeling now
strengthened by this news, we are apparently able to mix with all kinds of
diphtheria and suffer no consequences.
It is advisable to have diphtheria shots if
you are planning a trip to Moscow and if you are planning an extended stay,
membership is wise. Membership fees are high, about $800.00 per family, but
then again it is comforting to know that the AMC is well equipped to handle
most emergencies and will even evacuate you if the need arises.
Moscow remains an interesting city, filled
with challenges like any other. Quite literally, the city is changing every
day. While to some the changes are too fast, there are those who think that the
changes cannot come fast enough. A visitor to Moscow will experience the
distinct differences between the old and the new and perhaps be struck by the
fact that the former museum of Soviet economic achievements now also houses a
showroom of American off-road vehicles.
(To be continued)
