Union Buildings

Union Buildings

Tuesday, 17 May 2016

The Czechoslovak divorce - two nations in transition


Part 1
Rene Franken

This is a story of my memories during my nearly six year stint in Czechoslovakia, from 1991 to 1997. During this time remarkable events took place in Central Europe. It proved to be one of the most interesting parts of my diplomatic career, but also at the same time a difficult one, as it entailed the process of the opening of two Embassies.

BACKGROUND:
For some time in recent history Czechoslovakia had a turbulent past, being wedged between the Germanic world and the Polish and Russian Slavic world. It was also constantly under influence from them.

The modern state of Czechoslovakia only came into existence in 1919, after the end of the First World War. The principle of the right to self-determination of nations, led to the Czechs in the territory called Bohemia and Moravia, which was until then under the Habsburg rule from Vienna, and the Slovaks, which were partly under the Habsburg and Hungarian rule, to decide in a referendum to come together as a new state called formally “The Czech and Slovak Federal  Republic”.

The Czechs and Slovaks are closely related with two different languages, but the difference is not that great. They are both Slavic languages. The difference between the two arose because of historical reasons.

The Czechs were governed from Vienna before 1919 and for a long time it was part of the Habsburg Empire – the most wealthy and prized part of the Habsburg Empire, with the capital city of Prague. This part was only independent for a short time from 1919 to 1938, before it was annexed to Germany as part of Hitler’s new German Empire. The last gunshots of the Second World War fell silent only on 9 May 1945 when the German Army occupying Bohemia laid done their arms to the Russian army. A plaque, a short distance from Prague, marks the place where the last shots were fired. After 1948 the Soviet Communist influence prevailed in Prague until November 1989.
Present day Slovakia was partly occupied and governed from Vienna, for some time till 1919, but another part was part of the Hungarian Empire and governed from Budapest till 1919. This was the wealthy part of Hungary as important factories were situated in this part of Slovakia as well as important trade routes crossed through Slovakia. This was the envy of its neighbours for many centuries. What was strange is that Hitler granted independence to Slovakia and this was the first time they were on their own, until April 1945, when the Russians occupied it. The Germans had built large ammunition factories in the mountains of Slovakia which the Russians expanded and these factories are still there to the present day. It then fell under Soviet influence and was again incorporated into the former Czechoslovakia, until it became independent on 1 January 1993, on the break-up of Czechoslovakia which ceased to exist after this date.

OPENING OF OUR MISSION IN PRAGUE, MAY 1991
After the unbanning of the ANC in February 1990, the whole of Central and Eastern Europe was open to us and it was decided to open Embassies in many of these countries. Minister Pik Botha had visited a number of those countries in November 1990. A number of Heads of Mission were subsequently identified and sent out in February 1991 to their respective countries to make the initial introductions and make some practical arrangements re: search for suitable office space and residences for Heads of Mission. The following countries were earmarked, Hungary, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Bulgaria, Rumania and the Soviet Union.

Always a cautions nation, the Czechs only permitted us to initially open as a Consulate General. I remember arriving early in May 1991 in Prague, with no visa and nobody to meet me on arrival. So, I had a lot of explaining to do, but the Immigration Official was very courteous and helpful. After this, I had to take a taxi to a small hotel on the outskirts of Prague as all hotel accommodation in town was fully booked due to the annual Prague spring music festivals, with concerts every day and evening somewhere in town.

Our Head of Mission was Nico du Bois, who had arrived some days earlier. He had arranged with the Czechoslovakian Foreign Ministry that I would receive my visa on arrival, but he could not meet me on arrival from Munich because he had an important meeting with the Czechoslovak  Minister of Trade and Industry. Once at the hotel (it was more of a Pension), but a neat place with the owner being very helpful and friendly, and speaking fluent German. She explained to me how to get to the nearest subway station and what lines to take to the Intercontinental Hotel in town were du Bois was staying. She also explained what machine at the subway station to use, which button to press and which coins to enter to get a ticket. I mention all of this as signs were only in Czech, so this experience was definitely not for beginners.

After unpacking, I proceeded to the subway station with a suitcase full of stationery which I purchased in Munich, the day before, on request of du Bois. Being completely disorientated, I did as I was told and drew the metro ticket at the right machine and took the underground, with a change in line, and finally I arrived at the correct metro station nearest the Intercontinental Hotel. My arms were already getting stiff as the suitcase was heavy, but luckily du Bois was already back from his meeting and I was relieved to see him. I had to take a Czech Beverovka ( “regmaaker”) but did not realise that this was such a strong alcoholic drink.

This first contact with Czechs did leave some impressions on me. They appeared to be a very closed people, not always open to discussion with strangers and very much on their own. On my first arrival at the metro station, I could not see them talking to each other. On waiting for the metro most were reading something. Once travelling in the metro, they were again reading and it was remarkably quiet. I soon learned that they must be the most literary people I have ever seen. They were neat people with fine facial features. However, I later also found them very reliable and once they weighed you up, they would opened up completely. For example, Mr du Bois was even invited to President Havel’s weekend house for a visit, where his wife Olga did most of the talking as her English was good and President Havel prepared some snacks in the small kitchen. There was only one other person amongst them and I presume that this was his private secretary. I mention this as not many other Heads of Mission in Prague had this privilege in that time.

Apart from Nico du Bois as Consul General, there was myself as Consul and Betsie Smith as Vice Consul, being the three line function officials. A few days after my arrival Betsie came and also had to stay at the Pension outside town till the end of May 1991.

Now, the fun really started. We were all working out of a du Bois’s bedroom which only had a round table and four chairs. It was decided by du Bois that I should purchase a broom, vacuum cleaner, a table with six chairs and take it to the Chancery so we could get started there as soon as possible as we could not meet anybody in such circumstances as what we had in the hotel.

On his previous visit to Prague in February 1991 the Czechoslovakian Foreign Ministry offered du Bois a four floor villa for our Mission. The villa was renovated with new wall to wall carpets, etc., and would suit our purposes quite well. They also offered him another villa, likewise renovated and only one house away from our Mission, as an official residence. This was originally offered to the Australian Government, but they turned it down. So the next day I went to the Villa by subway with the key and looked inside. Everything was OK, but a bit dusty. I ventured into the surroundings looking for a broom, a waste bin, if possible a vacuum cleaner and other small cleaning materials and detergents. This process took me half a day – there were hardly any shops there and you had to order what you wanted, then pay for them and collect the goods at the exit of the store and this all in Czech with body language from my side.

Anyway, I completed the assigned task and started the next day to look for a table and six chairs. Now this was a real challenge as shops in town did not keep such pieces of furniture on their premises – you had to order and they would deliver them, but this could take some time. In despair I checked the taxi drivers stationed at the Intercontinental Hotel and found one who could speak a reasonable English and who was prepared to take me to a place outside Prague were such furniture was made. It took some time and with a lot of luck we found a suitable table with the six chairs, which they offered to deliver the next day. The next day they delivered them, so now we were getting somewhere.

 News quickly spread that we were in the Intercontinental Hotel and because South Africa had  Czech and Slovak communities, people turned up to see us. Du Bois and Betsie had to receive visitors in the hotel lobby. Among those was a Czech lady, Mrs Olga Batskova, who had lived many years in South Africa and had recently returned to Prague with her two sons. She was in all respects suitable as a secretary for du Bois and she had just started when I arrived. I must say she also had to improvise a lot to get the Mission moving. Apart from working for du Bois, she also had to help me and Betsie. So it was really tough going and to give du Bois the credit he deserved, he was a strategist by nature, very well motivated and goal orientated, and a real go getter. He was also somewhat impatient and not the savvy type of diplomat.

We clearly remember the day he had an appointment with the Czechoslovakian Minister of Trade and Industry and he arrived at Ministry, in Grasshopper (veldskoene) shoes, 20 minutes late. Nevertheless, the Czechs and Slovaks respected his straight forwardness and integrity. I have to mention here that he was a political appointee and had served in this role before as Consul General in Munich. I had also served in Munich, but as number two, but just before his tour of duty.

Betsie Smith was a really hard worker, also well motivated and concentrated on the information side of the Missions work. In du Bois’s earlier years he also served as Information Attache at our Embassy in The Hague. Both were like rockets, but aimed in different directions, so it was imperative that they not share the same office and we moved from the hotel to the Chancery premises as soon as possible.  Now, du Bois, quite rightly said he was not moving unless he had a functioning telephone working at the office. So the next step was to arrange a telephone connection. The Foreign Ministry advised that they had no line there in the short term and that telephone lines were at a premium as there was such a big demand. In the end of the day we had to purchase a connection privately so we could install the telephone in the Mission. Within three days we got the line and I waited for the technicians to install it in the office allocated to du Bois.

Mrs Batskova could now move to the new Embassy and together we ordered four more tables with matching chairs as well as six cupboards with shelves. Whilst waiting for them, a Russian man walked in and said he wanted political asylum. He said he was a senior person from the KGB and would not leave the Embassy. Now luckily our phone had just been installed and I could get hold of du Bois who was still working from the hotel. He subsequently called Head Office who advised that we should make the gentleman comfortable until further notice from them. I showed this person that he could not stay in this building, there was nothing and not even hot water yet. He had to leave at six as we would close the place if no more news was received in the meantime. I knew that up to then South Africa did not, as a rule, provide political asylum. Then, just before six I received a call from somebody in our Embassy in Paris who spoke to the Russian and told him to return at a fixed date and time. With this info the gentleman luckily left and returned a few days later at the arranged time. The South African turned out to be from our counter-intelligence and he spoke to the man in one of our empty offices with just a table and some chairs.

This whole episode delayed du Bois, Betsie and the Trade official’s (who had also arrived in the meantime) move to the Mission by some days.

It was a wonderful experience for all of us to be able to work together from the Mission. We had space and although the offices were still bare we had a place to put our things and get properly started.

The next issue to address was getting money to pay for our day to day expenses. There were no credit cards or cheques yet, everything had to be paid in cash. Luckily du Bois and I had arranged bank accounts with the Dresdner Bank in Munich, the staff of which we both knew well from the time we served there. Our salaries would be paid in there by our Consulate General in German Marks. Also, all our subsequent office purchases we made in Munich, and this was a lot, were paid for by our Mission there. As we were only a Consulate General all our stationary was printed as such.

On arrival of our Administration Officer (Peter Bolink), we could arrange with Head Office and a Czech Bank in Prague, to have money deposited and drawn on a Czech account. But it took a while before cheques and credit cards were introduced. We were becoming increasingly dependent on the services of our Consulate General in Munich as this was also the closest to us and a lot of commuting took place. Du Bois was in daily contact with the local staff at the Munich office and because he had recently served there, he knew who could do what.

This led tension with the Head of Mission, Martin van Niekerk, whom gave instructions that no local staff member as to arrange anything for us without our speaking to him first. This complicated things for us, as we were getting a lot of supplies and even some furniture for our Chancery and Residence in Prague. Furthermore, our salaries were to be paid by the Munich office into our bank accounts there. So we had cheques and credit cards from the Dresdner Bank in Munich, which helped us a lot.

Luckily Martin left shortly afterwards and was replaced by Danie Fourie, whom du Bois and I both knew very well and things became a lot easier. Once the office furniture eventually arrived from South Africa, du Bois commented that this was not a Shebeen and he instructed Peter Bolink to organise appropriate furniture, which he then ordered through Peter Justesen without the approval from Head Office. Our Embassy in Bern also sent us some furniture, which they had written off and which we could use in the meantime.

Once we had everything in place later in the year we received a notice from the Czechoslovakian Foreign Ministry that both villas were returned to their former owners and we had to deal with them direct concerning any further rentals. It must be remembered that in the communist time all private property was nationalised by the state. Luckily they agreed to continue with the same conditions as the rental contract we had with the Foreign Ministry.

OTHER ACTIONS
In this initial phase, we left Betsie Smith to attend to our information work, which she tackled head on and soon we were having a lot of exposure to the Czechs and the Slovaks. They were keen to know what was going on in South Africa, which was in transition, as they had also experienced recently a dramatic change from a communist dictatorship to a democracy. She had to draw up an emergency distribution list for the South African main news clippings sent to officials in the government we knew,  as well as to universities, etc. She also dealt with a Czech, Mr Kubes, who was prepared to organise a Czechoslovakian/South African Friendship Society, through which we could also expand our connections and information publicity. 

However, he was later exposed as a communist collaborator when his name appeared in a local newspaper naming a list of collaborators, which was very embarrassing for us. Betsie, furthermore identified a group of important persons whom we would later send to South Africa as guests of our Department. In the end she had to do all the organisational work for the newly created Friendship Society. This was also not a task for beginners and she put a lot of effort into her work, in difficult circumstances in the initial stages where we had a lack of many things.

In the meantime we also had a stream of important South Africans visiting Prague, as this was a famous world city. The first was Mrs de Klerk, who came in July 1991 to officially open the Mission. We still had no furniture in the Official Residence and we had to rent chandeliers, organise curtains for the reception area, etc. Du Bois’ whole family, his wife and four school-going children, were still residing in the hotel, which was a very difficult time for them. Mrs du Bois had to go to Weiden, just across the border in Germany, to buy all the canapés we needed for the reception. Du Bois and his wife had to improvise a lot, but the function went off very well.
                                                                                          *

Mrs Marike De Klerk officially opening our Embassy in Prague

On the political front du Bois wanted to have our Mission status changed from a Consulate General to an Embassy. A Consulate General was at a much lower protocol level than an Embassy. This was going to be a tough nut to crack as the Czechoslovakian Foreign Ministry was very cautions on the outcome of the negotiations between the South African Government and the ANC. The only way around this was to get their Foreign Minister who was also the Deputy Prime Minister, Jiri Dienstbier, to go to South Africa and see for himself. After numerous visits to senior Foreign Ministry officials and seeing the Minister himself, it was eventually arranged for him to go to Pretoria in October 1991. Du Bois went to South Africa a few days earlier, so he could put Pik in the picture.

Now the unimaginable happened. When Mr Dienstbier went to see Pik, the latter convinced him to sign a diplomatic note to immediately upgrade our relations to Embassy level. We all know that Pik could be a difficult man, but when it came to South Africa’s interest he would move heaven and earth.  He also had a particular charm with foreigners and I presume he used this to convince Minister Dienstbier. The latter was very impressed when he saw Pretoria and was probably also looking forward to opening their own Embassy in Pretoria, as soon as possible.

I was informed of this in the afternoon and urgently went to the Czechoslovak Foreign Ministry Chief of Protocol as well as the Head of the Africa Division, to advise them of the new situation. They were already informed of this decision by their delegation which accompanied their Foreign Minister to South Africa, and I suppose that Minister Dienstbier spoke to President Havel by telephone from Pik’s office. The reason that I went so soon is that our Mission was now upgraded to an Embassy.
There was now a protocol issue in that I was now suddenly a Counsellor and “Charge’ d’ affaires ad interim” until du Bois’ return from South Africa. 

Betsie Smith became a first secretary. With du Bois, it was decided that he would remain behind in South Africa for some two weeks, so that he could regularise his new position as “Charges d’affaires” and get an endorsement to this effect in his diplomatic passport and other administration actions related to our new Embassy. A Charge d’Affaires is accredited to the Minister of Foreign Affairs and an Ambassador is accredited to the Head of State. We were now on equal footing as the other Embassies in Prague. It took us five months to get to this position since we established the mission.
After du Bois’ return from SA, there was a flurry of activities of officials and others, both ways.

The Czechoslovak Foreign Ministry decided to send Mr Frantisek Dlhopolcek as their first Ambassador to South Africa. He was Head of the Africa Division in their Foreign Ministry, a Slovak and former Ambassador in Harare. So knew our part of the world well and we were very happy for his appointment. He was particular helpful in the establishment of our mission in Prague and we were subsequently in regular contact with him once in South Africa.

He also knew Paul Coetzee and John Mare, respectively Chief Director and Deputy Director of the Central and Eastern European Desk at Head Office, very well before we opened our Mission in Prague, so this also proved to be helpful. Once he left we had Frantisek Hudac in the Africa Division, also a Slovak, who went out of his way to help us where he could. By a chance of fate, I would once again deal with both of them in Bratislava, when I was transferred there after the break-up of Czechoslovakia and all Slovak diplomats in Prague also had to move to Bratislava.

Another important task we set ourselves as a goal, was to sign a bilateral “Agreement on the Protection of Investments” and a “Double Taxation Agreement”. This moved very slowly mainly because it appeared that our Finance and Trade officials in Pretoria were suddenly overloaded with such requests from all the new countries which opened their doors to us. Du Bois decided to push the matter and got hold of Mr Eltie Links, our Consul General in Zurich, to visit us so that we could discuss these two Agreements and see what he could do. He was the Representative in Europe of the South African Department of Finance. He subsequently came to Prague and discussed draft agreements on these two very important issues with his counterparts here.

Simultaneously, Betsie was very active in getting South African cultural people to visit Prague to perform. One such a concert which she arranged and which stood out, was the visit of the Drakensberg Boys Choir to Prague. Czechs were very interested in culture. Iitwas an important part of their life and especially music stood out. Betsie took care of all the arrangements and had posters made promoting the concert, which were put in strategic places in Prague city. She also invited all our contacts as well as other influential personalities to the concert with a reception afterwards.

The concert was held in one of the famous Prague theatres. The concert hall was packed to capacity and the equivalent to our Director General of Foreign Affairs, who was a violin player, also participated in the concert. The evening was a great success with the audience spellbound to their singing. Even Betsie and we from the Embassy as well as Eltie Links, who was in Prague at the time, were emotionally carried away. The Drakensberg Boys Choir was made up of all races in South Africa. They first sang the traditional classical songs which already had the audience expressing their admiration by applause for some time.

After half time they sang South African songs as well as traditional African songs which really caused the audience to applaud so much as to make opera singers jealous. At the reception afterwards the Czechs could not stop praising their performance and many said they found them even better than the Vienna Boys Choir. I told Betsie that this one information action did more for South Africa’s image in Prague than any amount of information material published or guests visiting South Africa.

The next was Czechoslovakian Prime Minister Marian Calfa’s official visit to South Africa. He went with the government’s own plane and with a substantial delegation. Now interesting enough Mr Calfa was a Slovak and the last Prime Minister in Czechoslovakia in the communist time. He just continued in the same job only with a new President Havel. Mr Calfa first went to Israel for a visit and then from there to Johannesburg. 

They were under the impression that they had clearance to fly over Sudan, but the plane was refused entry over Sudan airspace. They had to make a wide detour and only arrived in Johannesburg a few hours late which put the whole official programme in some difficulties. Frantic telephone calls were made to find out what happened when they did not arrive on time. Anyway they all had a good visit to South Africa and had a lot of praise for the bold decisions which were taken by all sides. As far as I can remember we signed some bilateral agreements as well.

Another out-of-the-normal experience we had was with the issue of du Bois’ “ Agrement and Letters of Credence”. Once Minister Dienstbiers’ visit to South Africa was over we had to get the approval of the Czechoslovak Government to agree to him as South Africa’s Ambassador to Czechoslovakia. 

This process could take some time, but somehow du Bois was able to have this process done quickly. However by the time we had the Agrement the South African cabinet was already on their December holidays. Only our President could sign the Letters of Credence nominating Nico du Bois as South African Ambassador. The cabinet would only have its first meeting late in January 1992. Du Bois had to make frantic telephone calls to our Protocol Section to have the documents prepared and ready for submission to the Cabinet. There was some urgency in the matter as President de Klerk was scheduled to make a state visit to some Central European countries viz., Poland, Hungary and Czechoslovakia in February 1992. In would indeed look very strange if du Bois was still a Charge d’ Affaires during the visit of our President. Despite promises it would seem that near the end of January 1992, the document was still not signed by our President.

Now things were getting really difficult as an appointment had to be made for du Bois to present his Credentials to President Havel  within the next five days. Otherwise it would be too late. I remember that on the end of January 1992, we had to make a frantic late afternoon call to the President’s office and find out when the document could be signed by President de Klerk. We were lucky to get Dr Jannie Roux, the Director General in the Presidency, on the line and du Bois told him of the urgency in the matter. Dr Roux said he would go to the President’s Office and tell him to immediately sign the document and he would call us back. This he did after some 20 minutes which seemed to us a long time.

A subsequent call was made to our Chief of Protocol to urgently have Pik also counter sign the document the next day and to fax a copy to us. We would think of a way to get the document in Prague quickly. It was decided that Bestie Smith would fly to Zurich and meet Gert Nel from Head Office in the international transit hall on his way from SA to Warsaw.

It was clear to us that we may not have the original document in our hands before the arranged date set for the ceremony with President Havel for presentation of the Credential. So Du Bois and I proceeded to visit the Head of President Havel’s Protocol, Mr Egon Ditmar together. We showed him the fax and remarkably he told us not to worry. If the original document did not arrive in time we could put the fax in our Embassy special envelope and just hand it over to President Havel. The latter does not open it but at the handover, he passes it on to the Chief of Protocol who will know what is inside. This is exactly what happened.

Prague just before Nico du Bois presented his credential as Ambassador to President Havel. The persons are from left to right Tommie Classens (Trade) then Nico , me , Betsie Smith and Peter Bolink (Admin)

This was quite a serene experience as this took place in Prague Castle, a striking building on top of a hill overlooking the whole of Prague, in one of its many magnificent halls. Interesting enough the Chancellor to President Havel, Count Karel Schwarzenberg accompanied both du Bois and President Havel during a separate meeting where they were alone. I presume Schwarzenberg was also the translator as President Havel could not speak English that well.  
      
 I heard later from du Bois that the discussions went really well in a relaxed atmosphere. They also briefly touched on the impending visit of President de Klerk to Prague. Now interestingly enough, I see that Count Schwarzenberg is today (2012) the Czech Foreign Minister. He is a direct descendent of the Austrian Habsburg nobility who reigned in Prague for centuries.

The next was President de Klerk’s visit to Prague, which took place from 6 to 7 February 1992. It was the high point of our first two years working in Prague. It was a proper state visit with all the ceremonies, etc. There was a special manual on state visits which had to be meticulously followed. Fortunately, the Czechs were fully conversant with such visits and had everything planned to the minute with all the meetings and visits well organised. As it was a state visit, President and Mrs de Klerk were housed in the Prague Castle, together with their suite (personal entourage). President Havel greeted the couple on arrival at Prague Castle’s main entrance gate. 

He was there some minutes before the cavalcade arrived and the most catching moments were President Havel smoking a cigarette amongst the crowd gathered at the Castle gate. Lucky for me, du Bois and I only had to follow up the programme of President de Klerk and his direct suite which also included Pik, as well as Paul Coetzee and John Mare from head office plus Llewellyn Crewe- Brown, our Chief of Protocol.

Poor Betsie had to take care of the large South African press contingent (55), which had accompanied the President in his plane and that is usually the most difficult task of state visits. The only big problem we had initially with this group was to arrange a 24 hour direct special telephone line in the Hotel where they were staying, for their exclusive use. It cost Peter Bolink a case of whisky to have the technicians install the line urgently.

After settling down President Havel received President de Klerk in a One-on-One meeting. In the meantime our delegation, led by Pik and theirs, led by Dienstbier, met in one of the magnificent meeting rooms of the Castle for talks. This was very general with Pik explaining developments in South Africa. and Dienstbier touching on Czechoslovakian internal and external developments – the position of the two regional governments and his view that they should not separate as two independent states. Increasing trade and the position of the Czechs and Slovaks living in South Africa, as well as the question of cooperation in the weapons industry, viz., Denel and the Slovak weapons factory were also mentioned briefly. Later on both de Klerk and Havel joined in the discussions.

After this, a working lunch was served and in the afternoon Count Schwarzenberg took us to President Havel’s office in the Castle. This was a real eye opener as the office was decorated in an “avant garde” style with the most weird furniture and decorations – there was an upside down toilet painted purple, some tubes painted green and yellow stripes on the floor and walls. Even the telephone was astonishing. Count Schwarzenberg commented that this was how President Havel wanted it. He also showed us the scooter in the corner of the office, which Havel used to commute through the passages of the Castle so as to be able to reach all his staff. The Castle was a rectangular building and from one end all around, could be nearly one kilometre.

The next visitors to meet de Klerk, was the Prime Minister of Czechoslovakia, Mr Marian Calfa,  followed by the Chairman of the Czech National Council, Mrs Buresova and the Prime Minister of the Czech Republic, Mr Pithart. This was followed by the Chairman of the Slovak National Council, Mr Miklosko and Mr Carnogursky, the Slovak Prime Minister. These last two meetings were themself controversial as our Desk officers, Paul and John did not want these two meetings to take place at all. We should not interfere in their internal politics was their view, but both Pik and du Bois had a better understanding of the situation on the ground and so both meetings took place.

 These two meetings went a bit deeper and our future relations with these two regional governments were discussed. I could not help seeing the previous situation which we experienced between the regional President of Madeira versus the Prime Minister of Portugal. The Czechs said that separation was a very likely scenario. Likewise, the Slovak Prime Minister, who was also a conservative, said he did not think Slovakia was ready for independence yet. This was to cost him dearly in future as he was voted out in the next regional election in Slovakia and he never really recuperated politically. In any case President Havel said to de Klerk that he would not accept the separation and be part of it, even if it meant that he would resign as President.

Later in the afternoon President de Klerk and entourage went on a walk through the Wenceslas Square, were the Soviet tanks demonstrated their presence in 1968 during the Prague Spring uprising . The place was packed with spectators wishing to see de Klerk. The roads were closed around the square. Hands were shaken. A wreath was laid by President de Klerk at the statue of St Wenceslas and flowers put down at the Jan Palach memorial site (he burned to death during 1969 ). That evening President and Mrs Havel hosted a state banquet in the Prague Castle for all the guests and President and Mrs de Klerk, plus invited guests from Havel’s side.

In the meantime Betsie was having her hands full with the press group. Vaugh Dewing was the leader of the group with Casper Venter, President de Klerk’s press spokesman. When the Press meeting was held with Havel and de Klerk, questions were focused on any military co-operation between both countries. What I remember is that it was later reported in the South African press that one journalist lost his pants during a visit by the group to a local Cabaret club in Prague at night.

When the delegation left Prague for Warsaw there was a sigh of relief, but with the knowledge that this state visit gave our bilateral relations a big boost as well as our Embassy’s standing among the diplomatic missions in Prague.

Then one day in June 1992, there was a flurry of activity over the radio and TV. We switched on our Embassy TV and there was President Havel announcing his resignation, with immediate effect. This, after the Slovak Prime Minister announced just before, on TV that Slovakia would be independent soon.

The general mood in Prague was one of disbelieve and very sad as President Havel was enormously popular among the Czechs. This was not so unexpected as a few days before this event the Czech Prime Minister called al Heads of Mission together and said that the Czech government would not stand in the way if Slovakia wished to be independent. However, it was not expected so soon. There was no doubt in our minds that we were experiencing dramatic events in Central Europe.
After this eventful day in June 1992, there was nothing more in the way of the break-up of Czechoslovakia into the independent Czech Republic and Slovak Republics on 1 January 1993, for the second time in history.

Some years later President Havel, who became the first Czech President after the split up, said in public that it was the biggest mistake he made to oppose the separation of Czechoslovakia, as both states soon turned out to be better off – politically and economically.

THE SEPARATION OF THE TWO NATIONS AND THE ESTABLISHMENT OF OUR EMBASSY IN BRATISLAVA - SLOVAK REPUBLIC, ON 1 JANUARY 1993 – “de facto” versus “de jure” recognition – a headache for our Head Office.







Tuesday, 10 May 2016

Iran past and present

Coming out of the Persian Gulf, having to swim fully dressed

By Laurette Moolman

Forty years ago I was a young teacher in Swellendam when my sister Eleanor and her husband Walter Baker were sent on their first diplomatic posting to Iran. I had been to Iran twice before as a tourist and loved it from the first time I set foot on Iranian soil, so I gave up my job and joined them in Tehran. After a few hiccups I got a wonderfully rewarding job teaching English to young adults training to become tour guides or work in the hospitality industry. Half-way through my time there I went to Austria where I met Barry who was on his first posting in Vienna. A year later when we were both back in South Africa we got married.

Since I loved Iran so much I dearly wanted to introduce Barry to the country too but a year later the revolution broke out and changed everything. It wasn’t really on top of your list of places to visit! At the end of 2008 Barry got a call from Pretoria while we were on holiday in the Western Cape – he had been posted to Iran and ASAP: “Where are you? Near Mossel Bay on our way to Cape Town. Can you make a U-turn?” This would be his last posting before retirement. I was really happy. At last he would also be able to form his own opinion of Iran and for me it would be in Shakespeare’s words The wheel has come full circle.

I wasn’t so starry eyed as to imagine nothing would’ve changed, but I didn’t expect the worst and I never had any unpleasant experiences. On our first day there all the Farsi I had learnt 32 years ago came back to me and I could buy food and even throw them with ta’arof the very polite expressions they use without it meaning anything. Consequently I found the Iranian people as friendly as I remembered them right from the start.


Girls dressed up in traditional costume in Masuleh, a mountain village

I was fully aware that it hadn’t been like that immediately after the revolution. People were reluctant then to open up to foreigners. When we were in Kazakhstan, the way these things sometimes happen, we met the Swiss couple who were at their embassy in Tehran after the revolution when Walter closed down our Consulate General. The Swiss looked after the South African interests until an embassy was opened again in 1994. Barbara told me how extremely severe the dress code was at that time. 

Women were only allowed to wear dark brown or navy coats and trousers and brown or navy scarves pulled down to the brow and no make-up in public. As time went by though, the resilient young Iranian women shifted the borders little by little. In 2009 we could wear any colour as long as your arms, legs and bottom were covered, as well as any colour scarf. Older women look quite a bit like the Queen when walking her dogs as they wear longish coats and a scarf tied under their chins. The young and mostly beautiful Iranian women usually have long hair which they tie up on top of their heads so their scarves could slip back and be kept in place but still reveal quite a bit of hair. 

Nowadays they wear a tight fitting trench coat called a manteau and pants and during our 4½ years there we saw the pants become skinny jeans and some were even brave enough to wear leggings only. Only women working for the government or in banks for example, still wear navy blue or brown.

The dress code was one of a number of things which showed me how many people outside Iran simply only wanted to believe the worst. 


In the park

When on holiday I was often asked “and do you have to wear the niqab, all in black with only your eyes peeping out?” I would explain no, the Iranians are not Arabs and they don’t cover their faces. But 6 months later the same people would ask me again “and do you have to wear that thing … ?” A policeman once stopped an Arab woman on the streets of Tehran, wearing the long black robes, saying “we’re not Arabs, why are you wearing that?” Of course many conservative Iranian women wear the chador, the tent-like piece of material they wear to cover them from head to toe, clutching it under the chin. (The word chador literally means tent. Once in Yazd a strong wind tore the huge tent canopy covering the inner courtyard of the hotel and we were told the chador had collapsed.) Before the revolution many women, especially in rural areas also wore the chador but at that time it wasn’t compulsory to cover up. 

I had an experience in 1977 which made my friends in present day Iran gasp: I had gone to Tabriz with some of my friends from the college where I taught. In the area there is a lake similar to the Dead Sea, having a very high salt content and I went for a swim in it for that sensation of floating on the water. I simply wore an ordinary swimsuit and afterwards where they were building chalets, a builder brought a hosepipe to wash the salty water off me. Now THAT would never happen nowadays! Even when swimming in the Caspian Sea or the Persian Gulf women have to go into the water fully clothed.

After we returned from Iran in August 2013 I re-read Eleanor’s book As ‘n Pou kon vlieg which she wrote after their return from Iran in 1979. I wanted to specifically identify changes in Iran because I knew after I left in 1977 and during and after the revolution the situation was very bad. Of course, when we went to Iran in 2009 none of the devastation of buildings and roads were there anymore. There are many modern buildings in the cities and the infrastructure in the cities has improved tremendously. Tehran now has a modern efficient metro which keeps on being expanded. 


Typical Iranian girl on her phone

There is also a network of highways crisscrossing the city to help alleviate the very heavy traffic. In fact, all over Iran they have wonderful highways connecting all the major towns and cities. I still remember how scary it was in 1976 to travel by bus from Tehran to Esfahan on narrow single lane roads. Now it is a pleasure to travel by road on the highways. They have a few toll roads which are ridiculously cheap.

Eleanor mentioned in her book her last visit to a park called the Park Shahanshah (a title the Shah gave himself, meaning king of kings …) In the park there was a fountain cascading down next to some steps and on both sides of the water there were busts of kings and poets, painted gold. Eleanor was so worried that the golden heads would not survive the revolution and maybe not even the park. 

After we arrived in Tehran in 2009 the park, now called Park Mellat, was one of the first places I visited and I was sad that I couldn’t tell my sister how well the park had survived. There were no more busts of kings but they were replaced by philosophers, so you still had the two rows of golden busts leading up the steps. They are also taken care of very well and are regularly given a new coat of paint. After all, the poets like Hafez and Ferdowsi, to name a few, are too sacred to the Iranians for the religious leaders to interfere. 

The park is even more beautiful than before. The Persian Garden is so much part of their souls and no revolution could ever change that. In Spring the display of tulips is so mind-boggling that even visitors from Europe were most impressed. The park is a haven for retired people to sit with their friends, sharing a glass of tea or simply contemplating life. The young people play badminton on paved roads and we have seen head scarves flying in the wind. Sometimes in summer over the weekend they have sound and light shows on a small artificial lake in the park and they play western classical music.

Regarding this Persian Garden as part of the Iranian psyche, the authorities did even more. Sadly many of the former villas in the city have been demolished to make way for apartment buildings and the mayor of Tehran (Ahmedinijad who became president later on) said every possible open spot on traffic circles or next to highways should be planted with flowers and grass. Apart from making the city beautiful, on a Friday when Iranians traditionally leave the home to have a picnic outside, you will see families sitting anywhere where there is a bit of lawn and some flowers. 

The beautifying of the city goes even further. Under fly-overs or next to highways, wherever there is a concrete wall it gets decorated. In some places there are wonderful mosaic scenes and on other walls you will have a variety of themes painted there. In this way the city which used to be grey and drab apart from all the trees lining the streets, has become so much more colourful.

As I mentioned when I was in Iran in 1976 – 77 I taught at an Iranian college. Whenever the students had some free time or were celebrating the end of term or some festivity they would start dancing. I didn’t expect this trend to be visible at all any more in the Islamic Republic, but once more it was clear that you cannot block something which is so intrinsic to people’s natures. A friend and I went on a weekend bus trip to Kashan. 

We were the only foreigners on the bus and the others were mostly young Iranian couples or groups of friends. As the bus left the city the tour leader said whoever could speak English should do so with the two foreigners! This tour leader was a very jolly older man who told jokes relating to the different areas in Iran and played a musical instrument to keep the spirits high. Soon the young people started getting up from their seats and started dancing in the aisle of the bus. Head scarves were slipping. Someone pulled me into the aisle to join the dancing. The severe Islamic Republic of Iran?

Maybe by now some cynical readers will say “Hang on, it can’t all be that rosy. What about all the people in jail, the executions that still take place, etc. etc.” Of course there are many wrongs and no one can condone that. Musicians, for example, don’t have much freedom and have to submit their songs before they may perform them. The same with film makers. I was struck by one thing though. 

People criticised the present system very openly, to my surprise. Of course not in print because there they could get into trouble, but many Iranians we knew were very critical and would voice their criticism in no uncertain way, even in taxis and we came across a tour guide or two who were also very outspoken. The reason why I was so surprised was because during the time of the Shah nobody would criticise him. Even foreigners would have nicknames with which they referred to the Shah and his family if they wanted to say something about them. Once someone compared the Shah in French to a cat (the words sounding so similar) and he was ordered to leave the country the next day. 


Mural painted on the wall next to one of the highways in Tehran.

The Shah’s secret police (Savak – another word no one said out loud) were feared by all and with good reason. We were told at the time that every foreign household got allotted an Iranian ‘friend’ who could report back what was being said, which books were being read, etc. This time round there was no mention of this kind of subtle observation. We asked an Iranian friend who used to be in their foreign service whether he thought our house was bugged. He laughed and said “Let’s see, if I’m still here tomorrow, it isn’t”. And he is still around now!

The bottom line is in whichever country you are, the politicians and/or leaders are usually in a totally different category from the ordinary man on the street. As ‘only’ the wife I was fortunate to do what I wanted. I walked around freely amongst the ordinary Iranians. I used the local buses which were a cheap and very efficient way of getting around and gave me a glimpse into a life beyond the sheltered diplomatic one – sheltered only if you were inclined that way and not out of necessity. Iran was probably the safest country to live in. 

I travelled all over the country with a sister or a friend or with the family and we always only encountered the friendliest of friendly people. The Iranians have always been extremely hospitable and would invite you to their homes even after a chance encounter on the meidan in Esfahan or after spending some time chatting to you on the train. 

When I was in Iran all those years ago I once asked a student the way to a monument in Shiraz, but since it was closed over lunch time he simply took me home and told his mother to make me lunch before they dropped me at my destination later on. In all the little shops where I did my shopping the shopkeepers were such lovely friendly people. Sometimes when I felt a bit lonely I would go out to buy fruit or vegetables and I always returned with a warm feeling in my heart, because of the way 

I was greeted and treated. They certainly never treated me as an inferior being simply because I was a woman as is often thought about the Middle East. In Iran more than 50% of graduates at universities are women. I realise having been a foreigner was different from being an Iranian citizen, but then in Kazakhstan we were also foreigners but hardly ever got a smile from someone on the street.

Iran always got such a very bad press from the foreign media, hardly ever giving a true picture or at least both sides. Because I was so happy all of the 4½ years we spent in Iran I always tried to give a more positive and balanced view to friends and whoever was interested. Everyone who visited us in Iran agreed that it had been one of the best experiences they had had as a tourist. So I say, go for it!


The telephone call that changed my life – two and a half years in Iraqi Kurdistan

By Barry Moolman

Laurette and I were just back from our Summer holiday at Little Brak River when the phone rang on 1 January 1999. It was Hans von Sponeck who told me that me that he had been appointed as Humanitarian Coordinator for Iraq and whether I would be interested to join him in Iraq coordinating the UN activities in the Kurdish enclave in Northern Iraq. I had known Hans from my time in India, where he was the UN Resident Representative.

The next morning, at the office, I discussed Hans’ call with Chief Director Malcolm Ferguson and prepared a submission to Jackie Selebi, the DG. Tutu Mazibuko, who was the DDG for Asia and the Middle East added her positive recommendation and two days later the DG called me to the Union Buildings. After I explained the background he added his comment on the submission – “approved for full secondment”

This United Nations operation, UNOCHI, commonly known as the Oil for Food Programme was designed to exchange Iraqi oil for essential goods and services in Iraq. In the heartland of Iraq the UN monitored the distribution and in the Kurdish north the UN implemented everything “on behalf of the Government of Iraq.”

Shortly afterwards I travelled to New York for interviews and briefings and returned to Pretoria two days later armed with a blue UN Passport.

Early in April I flew to Amman in Jordan and from there travelled by road to Baghdad where I spent the first two weeks at the UNOCHI Headquarters in the Canal Hotel to meet all the Heads of the UN Agencies and other senior UN Officials.

Then we drove to another world – to Iraqi Kurdistan. After passing Kirkuk we went through the Iraqi control post, traversed a no man’s land stretch and then the Kurdish control post. The currency changed from New Iraqi Dinars to “Swiss Dinars”, the original Iraqi denomination. Satellite dishes could be seen on rooftops. 

The people were different and spoke Kurdish and despised the Arabs. Late that afternoon I was introduced to the PUK Prime Minister, Kosrat Ali. A lavish reception in a lush garden was laid on for Hans and myself. The Prime Minister, who spoke only Kurdish sat at the head of a long table laden with food and drinks. I sat to his left and he ordered a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black, poured each of us a water glass full and started to talk.

Ebrahim, my excellent translator skipped between Kurdish and English and some hours later (and an empty bottle) the PM and I really got to know each other. Kosrat Ali was an imposing figure, big, burly and with only one working eye. The other one, lost during the Kurdish civil war was replaced by a glass object staring straight ahead while the working one skimmed from left to right.

In Suleimania, the next day, I also met the President of the PUK, Jalal Talabani. Mam Jalal, as he was commonly known took me to his study where he showed me two books. President Mandela’s Long Walk to Freedom and the FW De Klerk biography. He had studied both and expressed a high regard for what we have achieved in South Africa.

By the end of that week I finally arrived in Erbil, the capital of the KDP controlled part of Kurdistan. My predecessor, Maxwell Gailard, on Thursday, took me along to a field demonstration by UNOPS where a week’s loot of unearthed land mines were to be destroyed. That is where I met, for the first and last time a young New Zealander, Nick Speigh.

Weekends are Fridays and Saturdays and after the demonstration Max and I went to a small town, Diana, high up in the mountains where we were to spend the weekend. We had scarcely arrived when a radio message came through that we were to return to Erbil immediately. Nick had been assassinated!

The Erbil Airport is a few kilometres out of town. Being in the no-fly zone, it was unused but a lovely spot to watch the setting sun from one of a number of pyramid shaped mounds. That is where Nick and Irene Plugge, a Dutch girl working in the UNOCHI Office went for an impromptu picnic. A dilapidated yellow and black taxi came to a standstill on the runway, the bonnet was opened and the driver came up to Nick and Irene to ask for some water for his overheated car engine.

This was gladly given and some time later the driver came back with the empty bottle, which he handed to Nick. As Nick took the bottle the man opened fire with a handgun and shot him in the chest several times, killing him on the spot. Irene, some 20 meters away screamed and some shots were fired in her direction. She fell over and feigned death till she heard the taxi speeding off. As we always carried two-way radios she raised the alarm and that led to our sudden recall from Diana.

An incident such as this inevitably led to a number of consequences. Security was stepped up, a curfew imposed and a ban on any night travelling imposed

After this rather dramatic start of my tenure I quickly met the KDP Leadership who all came to pay their condolences.

The UN operation in the North consisted of field offices in Dohuk, Erbil and Sulaimania. There were about 10 different UN Agencies dealing with the full  spectrum of administration of, amongst others Health, Education, Agriculture,  Demining, Housing and last but not least Food Distribution. We were about 100 foreign UN Staff members and some 700 locally recruited staff members.

My daily routine included co-chairing weekly meetings between the agency heads and the local ministers. As the interface between the UN and the Local Authorities I was very often called upon to mediate between both. Once, UNOPS announced that it had successfully demined a village and that the population could return. The traumatised villagers were sceptical that every single land mine had been cleared. In the end I suggested that I would lead a UNOPS Team who would take on the villagers for a soccer match on the former mine field. That convinced the meeting, no match was played and the village could be re-inhabited.

The world learnt of the horrors of chemical exterminations when the city of Halabja was attacked by Sadam’s air force. This was merely the tip of the iceberg. Many villages, such as one I visited on the banks of the Little Zab River went through this horror when small aircraft appeared and drums of chemicals were dropped up-wind. With the gas drifting over the villages few were spared and ended up as corpses on the bank of the river. Wells were then poisoned and mines planted, making the villages uninhabitable.

On another occasion I had to hand over “graduation certificates” to newly trained dog handlers who controlled the sniffer dogs searching for unexploded landmines. We previously ran into difficulties with the government in Baghdad who could not comprehend why the dog food for the South African dogs we used was more expensive than the rations given to the human population. The explanation that dogs should not be seen as such but rather as highly sophisticated biological mine detecting devices only partly convinced the government. It was then decided to start the NIPS Programme. NIPS stands for National Indigenous Puppy Sniffers. 

Local mongrel dogs, used to the extreme heat were trained along with their Kurdish handlers. Waiting under an awning we saw the dogs with their baggy pant wearing Peshmerga handlers approaching. Then I heard Afrikaans orders, “Sit, Staan Loop, Ruik.” And so forth.  The newly trained handlers used to their South African experts doubted whether dogs could be ordered to detect mines when given commands in Kurdish. Hence the sticking to Afrikaans.

The UN Mandate for Iraq, ran on six monthly cycles. Our contracts as well. At the end of each period an estimate was made of how much income was expected from strictly controlled Iraqi oil sales. The Kurdish area was run on the 13% account. That translated into millions of Dollars that had to be allocated to the various sectors in a six monthly budget. The final budget had to be approved by the UN Security Council.

Towards the end of the Millennium tension between the Iraqi Government and the Security Council was at a height resulting in the programme’s extension for mere weeks instead of the normal six months. Everyone wanted to be with their families all over the world to see in the 2000’s.

I ended up in Baghdad as Acting Humanitarian Coordinator when a final breakthrough came and the Budget had to be submitted and approved in the week between Christmas and New Year. Sitting in the office, which was later blown up with a massive truck bomb, I watched on television the new millennium in New Zealand breaking and slowly moving round the world until 24 hours later when the budget was finally ready for transmission to New York.

My term was extended five times until 2001 when I finally returned home to my family.Meeting up with Tutu Mazibuko after this time, she asked me why I did not stay on in the UN. My answer was that I owed it to the Department that approved my secondment to return home and continue to loyally serve my country.










Wednesday, 4 May 2016

Two days in Iraq ...

   
           
 By Andre Stemmet
Meintjeskop Ditaba, No 1/1998

It was all slightly unreal. We were relaxing and drinking beer in a guest house that used to be the exclusive hangout of Saddam Hussein's senior army officers in the town of Salahdin, when we heard gunshots, occasionally backed up by the sound of mortars. The guest house, perched on a hill overlooking the great Mesopotamian plain, gave us a grandstand view of a breakdown the cease-fire between the two rival Kurdish groups that were then, and are still today, controlling North Iraq.

Beer in hand we, that is myself, a colleague from the British Embassy in Ankara and a British Army Intelligence officer, were watching the exchange of fire. tracer bullets were illuminating the night and soon the fields were on fire. It appeared that no casualties were sustained, and fighting died down after a quarter of an hour. However, the feeling that one was watching a movie or a fireworks display, rather than shots fired in anger, remained. The reality of a low-scale civil war only dawned again the next day.

A senior official of the Kurdish Democratic Party (KDP) whose guests we were, then invited us to dinner, a lavish affair in the fashion of Middle Eastern hospitality. Over dinner, lamb stew washed down with Efese Pilsen (a Turkish beer which found its way to Salahdin despite United Nations sanctions - the Iraqi Islamists are clearly not influential in the KDP), we discussed the situation in Iraq.

After the allied forces invaded in 1991 in retribution for the invasion by that country of Kuwait, the Kurds who are predominant in Northern Iraq rebelled against Saddam Hussein's regime.

While this move was tacitly supported by the West as a way in which Saddam Hussein's authority could be undermined a counter- attack on the north by Saddam's forces and a flight of thousands of displaced Kurds to Turkey generated public opinion to such an extent that the US, UK and France had to take action. Operation Provide Comfort was announced - an air umbrella by a multi-national air component stationed in southern Turkey would protect the enclave against Saddam's forces by enforcing a no-fly zone over Northern Iraq. These Western powers also decided to implement a democratic structure of government in the enclave, to be an example for the whole of Iraq to follow after the hoped-for downfall of predominantly KDP and its main rival, the Patriotic Union of Kurdistan (PUK), took their seats in a parliament building in Erbil.

The Kurds always had a separate identity fro the other peoples of the Middle East. They trace their roots back to the Medes of Biblical times and Kurdish is a language quite distinct from Arabic, rooted in the Indo-European languages. While strong Kurdish states existed in the Middle Ages, the Kurds live today in the mountainous areas of Turkey, Iran, Iraq and Syria. In Iraq, the KDP and PUK, based in the mountains of the North, have since the sixties waged an insurgency war against the government in Baghdad. However, the two sides are being led and supported by different Kurdish tribes. Tribal and leadership differences frequently led to clashes between the two sides.

This history of conflict between the KDP and PUK and an oversupply of arms ended the democratic experiment in Northern Iraq before if properly began. The KDP and PUK fell out over mainly the control of border posts with Turkey and Syria (as trade with Iraq, including the northern enclave, had been prohibited by United Nations sanctions, (read smuggling posts) Money was thicker than blood. A civil war between the two groups broke out, the PUK chased the KDP out of Erbil, and the division of Iraq was followed by that of Northern Iraq, the KDP controlling the northern and the PUK the southern part. The KDP made its headquarters in Salahdin, a nice hillside town with a view of the Mesopotamian Plain and Erbil, the PUK capital.

During dinner a senior KDP official explained that the fight we just witnessed, was in contravention of a cease-fire agreement between the two sides, not achieved by Western peace brokering and diplomacy, but by pragmatism, it was harvest time and fighting interfered with the gathering of the harvest. The people must eat and winter in the mountains is long and cold.

Despite the official cease-fire, broad daylight the next day revealed that everyone was on a war footing. Salahdin swarmed with KDP pershmergas (fighters) in traditional Kurdi.sh garb (headdress and wide pants}, men with large moustaches and dark eyes, with bandoleers across their bodies and armed with AK( rifles and hand grenades, a generation of people who grew up in the mountains, always fighting the Baghdad government and sometimes, like now, their own people.

While the soldier" were looking fighting fit,
the civilian population was the worse for wear.
Hospitah, once well stocked with the be3t
medical supplies petro-dollars could buy, were
now in a dismal condition. The3e showpieces
of Japanese engineering were falling apart; the
medical equipment standing idle due to a lack
of spare parts. The manager of a hospital
complained that 0.""orthern Iraq was suffering
from a double boycott, the C0: sanctions
against Iraq and Bagdad's O~TI sar;dions
against the :\ orth. Human suffering looked
me in the eye, but thi" time not from qui.:k


Cl\K report or the pages of Newsweek.
FortWlately some good Samaritaniam were
trying to help, two of whom, Julian and penny
Solomon, hail from Cape Town. Julian and
Perry worked for a non-governmental
organisation involved in the provision of
hOU3ing and health care, based in Erbili.
They came to fetch me in Salahdin and took
me across the "border" into PUK land. The
"border POBt" can rather be described as a
machine gWl post, a heavy calibre was poking
menacingly from behind sandbags. A shot up
Land Rover at the side of the road was silent
witness to the fact that, as elsewhere in the
world, one should preferably be nice to border
official:;.
Erbil is said to be to be the place of longest
continued human habitation, 9000 years. (I
have heard the same claim in Jericho). Today
it is a typical arid, dusty Middle Ea.3tern city.
The region's troubles did not dampen the
Middle eastern entrepreneurial spirit - in the
bazaar I was offered coffee and Kurdish kilims,
the coffee for free and the kilim.s at irresistible
pnces.
It is aLa a city carrying the scars of war. The
Parliament building was badly shot up during
the KDP-PUK cla3hes. Everywhere on the
streets were wrecked vehicles and pershmergas
- the PUK variety being indistingui3hable in
appearance from their KDP counterparts up
in the hills.
That night we had dinner at the home of a
;\lini3ter of the PUK administration. ~lore
and plenty meat (I was starting to miss my
pasta diet). The Minister, urbane and dressed
in a dark suit, arrived in a Mercedes, but
nunour had it that he was the owner of the
only a=oured var in 0.""orthern Iraq
("liberated" from Saddam's forces) and enjoyed
nothing more than jumping out of the suit
and Mercedes and into a pershmerga tmifo=
and the a=oured car in order to take the
fight to the enemy.

Our dinner discussion centred around the
peaceful election and transfer of power in
South Africa a few months before, and the
example it sets [or the world.
The next day it wail time for the long journey
back through the mountains to the Turkish
border, in a Toyota Landcruiser ("liberated"
from Kuwait), escorted by two more
Landcruisers and armed pershmergas for
securitv reasons,
Reflecting on the experiences of the previous
days, I realised that fighting was in these
men's blCXJd. T riballoyalties run deepe~ than
any other consideration. War and conflict,
together with the human suffering, have
become part of everyday life. The war in
~orthern Iraq Was just another conflict in this
region that is prone to instability.


The situation on the ground was light years
away from the sanitised reports in the Turkish
Daily );ews that I could read in the comfort of
my office in Ankara, and from the news
conferences by visiting US Under-secretaries
of '5 tate for ~ ear Eastern Affairs in the
Ankara Hilton. Conflicts in the Middle East
appear to' have their own logic, a logic that
cannot easily be reduced into boxes and files,
and political reports for the Desk.
I realised that we diplomats, trying to
understand the Middle East are probably more
often that not just scratching the surface in
our efforts to make sense of events in that
fascinating region. How lucky we in Foreign
Affairs are to be able to get the opportunity
tCXJ, if then only scratch the surface, of a part
of the world that is as old as time itself.