From Deon Fourie who was in Foreign Affairs from 1
January 1955 until 30 June 1957
FINE FEATHERS … 1956
To clarify how I came to design a diplomatic
uniform, I should explain that I was continually coming upon files dealing with
strange subjects and the one dealing with a possible uniform was one of the
files. I can’t remember how I stumbled across these files, but I did.
Having a boss in DFA who did everything himself –
the Cadets fetched the files twice a week … the 2nd Secretary translated Spanish Gypsy
poetry into Afrikaans and the rest of the time we did what we liked … I wrote
memos which were seldom acknowledged … when I designed a training scheme for
Cadets it was not even filed … .Some I turned into newspaper articles later. This
one was written in about 1956.
When I read this some 60 years later it seems
strange that when there had been so much agitation for a uniform the Dept. was
not prepared to accept the proposal. Of
course, I was only a Cadet in my second year and considering also one First
Secretary’s caustic remarks to me I suppose that some thought I had a lot of cheek.
On the other hand I did write in a reproving or patronising tone which would
not have been welcome to some. Still, I
did say ‘respectfully’ once!
A propos of this memo …
A note from Derrick de Villiers to First Secretary
Joe Fourie said “Filed by Mr Jones without comment”. Mr Jones was then Head of
the Political Section.
De Villiers told me that he could not prevail for
Ghana’s Independence Celebrations to which Counsellor Robert Jones and IFA de
Villiers went as official representatives.
C’est la vie … ou la guerre … ?
Deon Fourie
26th February 2016
UNIFORMS FOR DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR
REPRESENTATIVES ABROAD
Historical Note.
In
1929 after enquiries had been made regarding the procedure followed by Ottawa,
Dublin and Canberra, the High Commissioner in London (Mr. Louw) was informed
that “for the time being” full evening dress would be adopted as the uniform of
the Union’s Ministers in Washington, The Hague and Rome.
In 1934
a minute to the Consul General in Lourenço Marques, who had drawn attention to
the advantages of a suitable uniform in a tropical climate such as obtained at
his station, prescribed as “ordinary occasional dress” for official functions.
In 1937
a note was submitted to the Under-Secretary asking whether steps could be taken
in the matter and pointing out that there was much to be said for the adoptions
of a distinctive uniform as was worn by other Foreign Services. The Secretary
asked to see designs of the Netherlands tropical uniform but no decision in the
matter was recorded.
At the end
of 1939m the Union’s representatives overseas were sounded and the majority
pronounced themselves in favour of a distinctive uniform for the Foreign
Service. (Note by Mr Jordaan, 18.3.1947). The design of Dr Leyds’s uniform (now
in the Transvaal Museum) was mooted, but it was felt that a very much simpler
and less ornate design was called for.
Dr Bodenstein discussed the matter with the Prime Minister but General
Smuts said that as he had newly entered into office and as a war was in
progress he did not wish to make too many changes just yet. He asked that the
question be held over until after the War.
Early
in 1947 in a private note to the Secretary, general Theron expressed strong
sentiments on the wearing of evening dress to day functions and urged the
wearing of morning coat if a distinctive uniform were not to be adopted.
In
a subsequent note on the file, Mr Jordaan said that he considered that all our representative favoured a
uniform. While morning coat would be preferable for day wear if a uniform could
not be agreed to, that would hardly meet the requirements of our
representatives in tropical posts _ “Ask Parminter, Fourie, du Plessis, Horn
and others how they like walking about with a morning coat in the sweltering
heat when their colleagues are rigged out in cool, white tropical uniforms!” He
suggested a Russian style uniform, cut like a naval uniform with shoulder
insignia differentiating the ranks. The objection to the expense, Mr
Jordaan added, fell away with the clothing allowance available to officers
travelling between classified posts. The uniform would not be worn often and a
system of insignia simply added to the uniform with the officer’s progress in
rank would keep the cost low.
Mr Bruce drew up a memo which highlighted most of
the foregoing. Pointing out that Belgian, United Kingdom, French and Portuguese
officials were permitted by their regulations to wear white tropical uniforms
on ceremonial occasions, he stressed that it was unquestionably a hardship to
impose heavy, dark dress on representatives at tropical posts.
In support of Mr Bruce’s memo Mr G.P. Jooste submitted a
note to the Secretary expressing his full agreement with General Theron’s
opinion on the prevailing dress. Morning
coat was not the answer as it was past diplomatic practice to regard it simply
as “formal” dress whereas evening dress was regarded as the only alternative to a distinctive uniform. On
the subject of a distinctive dress, Mr Jooste added –
“I would however
like to suggest, in passing, that if and when do decide upon a uniform, we
should not model it on the conservative and ornate uniforms of some of the
older diplomatic services. We should consider something more simple and
hygienic – though dignified – something on the lines of a naval uniform and
suitably adapted”.
The
Secretary intimated that the Department’s policy would not yet be changed.
A Compromise.
Accordingly
the Union’s representatives were permitted, by circular D.A. 60-, in their
discretion, to wear morning coats and white suits in tropical localities, and
the Secretary, in a letter to Gen, Theron, said -
” … I would
like to add that the introduction of a distinctive uniform has not been dropped
but has merely deferred for investigation at a later date. We hope to revive
the matter when pressure of more important things besetting us permits of
proper consideration being given to this question.”
In response
to the circular permitting the wearing of white suits, Mr Horn, who was
then Consul-General at
Lourenço Marques, a white suit was every day attire for Europeans, Indians and
Natives, and thus hardly constituted suitably formal dress for day time
ceremonial functions. Morning dress being far too hot for Lourenço Marques, he
urged early consideration of the possibility of introducing a suitable uniform,
at least for tropical stations. Mr Horn was told however, that the matter of
uniforms was still not to be considered by the Department.
When Dr Naudé took up his appointment in Lourenco
Marques in 1951 he again drew the Department’s attention to the requirements
both of climate and protocol in Moçambique and enquired whether consideration
had not yet been given to the provision of a suitable uniform. He pointed out
that on formal occasions tropical uniforms were worn by the United Kingdom and
French representatives in Lourenco Marques.
This led to an enquiry being directed to the Chief of
General Staff regarding the uniform pattern worn by the South African Navy and
the South African Corps of Marines. Although the CGS promised to submit designs
in due course this was not done and the matter was dropped.
More Enquiries.
In
1952 Mr Taljaard seems to have addressed personal letters to colleagues in
Madrid, Rome, The Hague, and Paris on the subject of uniforms. The consensus of
opinion seems to have been that the old style of uniform with cutaway frock,
cocked hat and sword, not only did not fit into the post War age but was so
expensive as to make it almost prohibitive (£200 for a British ambassador’s
uniform). Mr Bruce mentioned that the British ambassador in Madrid was forced
to wear hand-me-downs, purchased from a colleague who in turn had obtained the
uniform from the estate of the late Lord Lothian! The British and the French
Foreign Offices were considering the introduction of something simpler, while
this had already been done by the Netherlands in 1948.
Mr
Taljaard presented a brief memorandum referring to the history of the question,
bringing the foregoing under consideration and pointing out that there were
tailors at The Hague, London and Madrid willing to submit suitable designs. Mr
Jones requested Mr Taljaard to submit a more comprehensive memorandum but
nothing further has been done.
Discussion.
There is
much to be said in favour of a distinctive Foreign Service uniform. The primary
value of a distinctive uniform which can be recognised as that of a particular
service is in the ésprit de corps which it evokes. This fact has been recognised universally by
the armed services immemorially. For a relatively young Foreign Service such as
the Union’s this should be a vital consideration. Experience in the South
African Marines proved that nothing instils so overwhelming a pride in a young
service as does a distinctive uniform.
The
unpopularity of the wearing of evening dress as uniform for formal day
functions such as the presentation of credentials has been expressed on many
occasions – General Theron called it a “tom-fool get-up” and Mr Egeland spoke
of it as an “incongruous hotel waiter’s outfit”. Discontent with prevailing
dress at the most senior levels of the Service would be eliminated by the
introduction of a suitable uniform.
An
exceptionally strong argument for a uniform is the discomfort which officers
serving in tropical zones have to endure. It is nothing less than inquisitorial
torture to have to attend formal functions in a tropical climate attired in
evening dress, morning coat or even a short black jacket. This is especially
true when the hosts themselves are formally attired in neat white uniforms as
is invariable in all other territories in Africa.
Even in
Pretoria the wearing of heavy dark clothing in summer is sheer punishment and
it is strange that the Union which considers itself primus in Africa in
everything to do with the continent, has not yet learnt to cloth its Public
Servants in attire suitable to the prevailing climatic conditions as have all
the European colonial powers who have a far shorter acquaintance with Africa.
The Union has eleven posts in Africa, Madagascar and South America where the
climate warrants the wearing of tropical dress at formal occasions in summer,
and very often in winter too!
With the
expansion of the Union’s representation in Africa, where the indigenous
population attaches great value to prestige symbols a uniform would undoubtedly
be advantageous to the country’s representation
It is conceivable that this might also be true of representation in Latin-America, as well
as in Spain and Portugal.
Cost.
The disadvantages accruing to the
adoption of a uniform are chiefly related to the expense. A simplified
contemporary design can, however, cost very little indeed. A.C.F. Marine officers were able to fit
themselves out entirely for only £56.0.0d with mess dress, blue serge service
dress, cap, shoes, shirts, greatcoat and all accessories. This included tailoring
at £22.0.0d for both uniforms. For £76. 0. 0d ACF Naval Officers are able to
fit themselves out with black doe-skin No. 1 dress, two white tropical
uniforms, cap, shirts, shorts hose and all accessories.
The cost
of white drill uniforms is very little indeed. Light, washable drill, such as
that used for SA Navy uniforms, is relatively inexpensive and may be obtained
in quantity quite inexpensively if it is desired to ensure a readily available
reserve in areas where uniforms are frequently worn.
Why Not Now?
It is twenty-seven years since the
question of the wearing of a distinctive Foreign Service Uniforms was first
touched on. During the intervening years the Union’s Foreign Service has
continued its steady growth and the need for a symbol of the Service’s
distinctive identity has presented itself with increasing force. This need has
been expressed time and time again by many of the Foreign Service’s most
experienced and distinguished officers. It is perhaps opportune now for the
matter to receive detailed consideration with a view to final settlement.
Proposal Attached.
The
attached specifications and designs for distinctive full dress and tropical
uniforms for the Foreign Service of the Union of South Africa are, therefore,
respectfully submitted for consideration.
DFS Fourie
COMMENTS ON PROPOSED
DESIGNS
1.
Colour of
Full Dress.
A suitable colour is dependent on the colour of accessories e.g., Gorgets,
shirt and tie. The combination of dark green and gold has been suggested by M
J.B. Mills as being distinctively South African. The problem of the colour of
the shirt arises. If this can be resolved without giving the service the
appearance of a “Shirt” movement, dark green would be most attractive. If a
dove grey is used gorgets, may be green or red. It is unfortunate that green
gorgets are worn by the Department of Prisons. The UDF now ears orange gorgets
and no longer wears scarlet. The distinction is very noticeable and scarlet
gorgets may be appropriately distinctive. They can be worn with grey or blue.
2.
Style of
Full Dress.
The single-breasted style is recommended as being suitable to all figures and
less easily creased than the double-breasted style. The lapels are cut to a modified double
breasted patter to distinguish it from the military pattern and to emphasize
the distinctively civil nature of the Service. For the same reason pockets are
not “patch pockets” but have only the flap.
3.
Buttons. To avoid
unnecessary expense it is considered the die used for manufacturing brass
buttons (bearing the national coat of arms) worn by the UDF may be used for
gilt buttons for the Foreign Service. The dimensions given are those of the UDF
buttons.
4.
Cuffs. The gold lace recommended is that worn by the
South African Navy and it is hoped to avoid expense by making use of the lace
available in UDF stores. The style of the cuff is a modified version of the
Netherlands style, but it is also to be found on the mess dress of some South
African units.
5.
Gloves and
Shoes.
The styles recommended are also available from UDF stores.
6.
Cap. The type of peak recommended for senior
officers is that worn in the UDF and will again be available without
unnecessary expense.
7. Rank Insignia. This has been selected for simplicity of
design and is in keeping with the common practice of using the national flower
as a motif, e.g., the Netherlands use the “Marietjie”. Although the United Kingdom Service wear
gorgets only on the tropical dress and the Netherlands Service wear detachable
cuffs and a detachable embroidered collar, it is suggested that an attractive
method is the Gorget (which gives the collar a better finish) and epaulettes of
the Naval style (stiffened with whalebone) in order to give the figure a trim
appearance.
DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS
1.
FULL
DRESS
1)
Tunic. Single breasted, open
collar with lapels cut to allow the lower wing of the lapel to project half an
inch (see illustration) to be buttoned with four 1-inch gilt buttons bearing
Union’s arms (UDF pattern) . Four pockets with 3-point flaps, fastened with
5/8-inch buttons. The cuffs round, three inches deep with Naval gold lace
around the top width varying with rank , bent toward cuff on the trailing edge.
A flap 6½ inches long and 3½ inches wide at the points, edged with 9/16–inch
naval gold lace, on each cuff. Appropriate shirt and tie to be worn with
tunic.
2)
Trousers. Of the same material as
the tunic.
3)
Shoes. Black patent-leather or
black naval officers’, plain front, no toe-cap.
4)
Gloves. Brown or black pigskin.
5)
Cap. Universal Military
Pattern, as worn by officers of the SAAF. Plain black mohair cap-band; black
patent leather peak, 2-inch wide at the centre, to droop at an angle of 45
degrees; patent leather chin strap. Gold oak leaf lace (UDF pattern) worn on
edge of peak by ranks from Counsellor upwards, and also on top of the peak by
Ambassadors, Ministers and Equivalent ranks. Plain lace (UDF pattern) worn on
the edge of peak by First Secretaries. Gold embroidered badge, Union coat of
arms surrounded by protea wreath, 1-inch x 3-inch.
6)
Rank insignia. Protea Flower and leaf
design embroidered in gold, worn with in cuff flaps as illustrated. Gorgets to
be worn in full dress by Ambassadors, Ministers and equivalent ranks.
RANK LACE ON CUFF EMBROIDERY
Ambassador, High 1¼ inch Five Protea
Commissioner, London
Minister, High 1¼ inch Four Protea
Commissioner
Counsellor, Commissioner 9⁄16inch Three Protea
Consul-General
First Secretary 9⁄16 inch Two Protea
Second and Third 9⁄16inch One Protea.
Secretaries
2. TROPICAL
DRESS
1)
Tunic. Single breasted, to be
buttoned with five 1-inch gilt buttons bearing Union’s arms (UDF pattern);
stand-up (Mandarin) collar with detachable gorgets of varying pattern according
to rank, as indicated in illustrations; two epaulettes of the same design; two
breast pockets (patch style) with
three-point flaps with box pleats with
-inch
buttons . Sleeves plain with pointed cuffs 5 inches high at point and 2 ½
inches behind.
2)
Trousers. Of the same material as the tunic but full
dress trousers may be worn optionally.
3)
Shoes. Black patent-leather or
black Naval officers’, plain front, no toe-cap.
4)
Gloves. Brown or black pigskin.
5)
Cap. Universal Military Pattern, as worn by
officers of the SAAF. Plain black mohair cap-band; black patent leather peak, 2-inch
wide at the centre, to droop at an angle of 45 degrees; patent leather chin
strap. Gold oak leaf lace (UDF pattern) worn on edge of peak by ranks from
Counsellor upwards, and also on top of the peak by Ambassadors, Ministers and
Equivalent ranks. Plain lace (UDF pattern) worn on the edge of peak by First
Secretaries. Gold embroidered badge, Union coat of arms surrounded by protea wreath,
1-inch x 3-inch.
6)
Rank insignia. Protea Flower and leaf
design embroidered in gold, worn with on epaulettes as illustrated.
7)
Gorgets. Dark [green?] cloth with embroidery in miniature with
th button at point (See illustration).
RANK EMBROIDERY ON GORGETS AND EPAULETTES
Ambassador, High Five Protea
Commissioner, London
Minister, High Four Protea
Commissioner
Counsellor, Commissioner Three Protea
Consul-General
First Secretary Two Protea
Second and Third One Protea.
Secretaries
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